In May 2025, I joined Grand Circle’s M/V River Harmony for a 14-day river cruise from Vienna to Amsterdam—a journey filled with castles, canals, cathedrals, and charming old towns that seemed lifted straight from storybooks. Along the way, we stopped at some unforgettable ports in the heart of Bavaria.
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| 14 day river cruise itinerary from Vienna to Amsterdam |
Three towns in particular—Regensburg, Kelheim, and Bamberg—stood out for their beauty, walkability, and immersive history. Each one offered something special: quiet parks, quirky museums, commanding hilltop views, and beer in just the right setting. Here’s how I experienced each of them, step by step.
I began my day in Regensburg, one of Germany’s best-preserved medieval towns, with a walk to the Stone Bridge (Steinerne Brücke) just after 9:00 AM. This 12th-century stone structure, once the only crossing over the Danube for centuries, was a marvel to see up close. As I stepped onto its weathered stones, I couldn’t help but imagine the merchants, knights, and emperors who once used it to reach distant parts of the Holy Roman Empire. Rather than stay with the group, I chose to explore on my own—my first goal was to walk to the Stone Bridge, about 0.8 mile from our docking spot on the Danube. That bit of freedom led me to some of the day’s most memorable moments.
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| Regensburg city map (provided by Grand Circle) |
The M/V River Harmony arrived in Regensburg, Germany on Thursday, May 15, 2025, and docked just behind the Danube Ship Museum on the left-hand side of the Danube while heading north. As I walked along the Marc-Aurel-Ufer toward the Stone Bridge, several interesting sights caught my attention.
One standout was the Künstlerhaus Villa Concordia, which sits prominently above the riverside promenade and is hard to miss with its turreted, castle-like design. Villa Concordia, as it’s more commonly called, is a Baroque Revival–style villa just a short walk from the bridge. Built in the 19th century, it features ornate towers, crenellations, and perfect symmetry. Today, it serves as an artist residency and cultural center, hosting international artists, writers, and musicians.
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| M/V River Harmony Photo:Public Domain |
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| Künstlerhaus Villa Concordia (on the walk to stone bridge) |
The next thing to catch my eye was a a whimsical sculpture titled "Yellow Submarine". A quirky, oversized nod to both popular culture (yes, it references The Beatles' song) and Regensburg’s relationship with the Danube. Its placement in front of the stark, modern architecture of the museum made it especially eye-catching.
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| Yellow Submarine (on the walk to Stone Bridge |
Finally the Stone Bridge comes into view.
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| Stone Bridge in view |
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| Stone Bridge |
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| Entrance to walk across the Stone Bridge |
There’s no need to cross the Stone Bridge as Regensburg’s city center is located on the west side of the Danube. One of my first stops was St. Peter’s Cathedral (Dom St. Peter), the towering Gothic heart of the city and one of Bavaria’s most significant ecclesiastical buildings. Its twin spires, visible from nearly every corner of the old town, seemed to pierce the sky as I approached. Construction began in the 13th century and continued over several hundred years, resulting in a stunning blend of French Gothic inspiration and German craftsmanship.
Stepping inside, I was enveloped by an almost reverent stillness. The high vaulted ceilings, the delicate arches, and the soft, colored light filtering through stained glass windows—some dating back to the 14th century—creating an atmosphere that felt both sacred and timeless. The cathedral is still an active place of worship today and is home to the world-renowned Regensburger Domspatzen, or “Cathedral Sparrows,” one of the oldest boys’ choirs in the world.
As I stood there in the quiet, it was easy to imagine centuries of worshippers—pilgrims, nobility, townsfolk—all passing through the same heavy doors. St. Peter’s isn’t just a building; it’s a living symbol of Regensburg’s spiritual and cultural endurance.
From there, I meandered toward something much sweeter—Prinzess Confiserie, a charming chocolate shop that felt like it belonged in a fairytale. I treated myself to a couple of very decadent (and expensive) pieces.
Next stop--one of the quirkiest spots I’ve ever come across: the Dachshund Museum. Dedicated entirely to Germany’s favorite dog, this little museum was packed with vintage figurines, photos, and a genuine sense of joy. The collection was compiled by two Passau master florists Seppi Küblbeck and Oliver Storz over 25 years. I couldn’t stop smiling.
As I wandered through the winding streets, I found myself in Haidplatz, one of the city’s oldest and most beautiful squares. Surrounded by colorful old buildings and lively cafés, it was easy to feel the echoes of history—this was once a gathering place for emperors and nobility.
Eventually, I gave in to the temptation of a good local beer and hot dog at a the 870 year-old "no-frills" eatery called the Historic Sausage Kitchen (Wurstküche) aka Resenburg Sausage Kitchen. The food was simple, the flavors bold, and the setting—right near the river—was perfect for people-watching.
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| Take away order |
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| Eat in order |
One important note: if you order "take away" at the window, you're not allowed to sit at the outdoor eating area. That space is reserved strictly for guests who order from the full menu.
I considered making a detour to Herzogspark, a quiet little botanical garden not far from the center, but the rhythm of the old town held me in place. Regensburg has a way of pulling you in—its cobblestone lanes, centuries of layered architecture, and unexpected charms around every corner.
By 2:00 PM, I was back aboard the ship, full of good food, unexpected discoveries, and a deeper appreciation for this city that wears its history so beautifully.
#River Cruise 2025#Regensburg#Germany
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