PACAYA-SAMIRIA NATIONAL RESERVE and PIRANHA FISHING

At exactly 5:00am I was startled awake by the annoying sound of my alarm clock. Sitting straight up I briefly forgot where I was but as I glanced out our bungalow window reality returned.  Prior day instructions suggested we be in the main lodge at 5:45am in hopes of, depending on weather, watching the sunrise and taking a morning tour of the Pacaya-Samiria National Reserve. 

The reserve is also known as the ‘forest of mirrors’ and a paradise for bird watchers.  The Peruvian Government established the reserve in 1982 with the express purpose of preserving the wilderness resources and the beautiful landscapes of the area.  With an area of 8,042 square miles, the reserve houses a great diversity of wildlife and aquatic life: 449 bird species, 102 mammals, 69 reptiles, 58 amphibians, 256 fish and 1,204 plants.  Threatened and endangered species also reside in the reserve and include the jaguar, black alligator, giant river otter, the manatee, four different species of primates and two different species of turtles.  The reserve is also home to five of the eight species of Macaw found in Peru.  I was especially interested in viewing the ‘pink’ dolphins I had read so much about.  Were they really ‘pink’? 

With over 1,200 varieties of flora one can find a great diversity of medicinal plants and trees that can reach a height of 150 feet or more.  In certain areas you can still find rubber trees, which are now being preserved after the famous rubber exploitation of 80 years ago.  

What I found surprising was the number of ethnic groups that call Pacaya-Samiria National Reserve home:  94 communities, 21 of them of the Cocama ethnic group. The total population of the Reserve is 42,000 people with their main economic activities centered on fishing, agriculture, gathering and hunting.  Fish, of course, is considered the most important resource because of its role in the ecological process, its economic value and nutrition value provided to the local people.  Access to the reserve is by boat only and is controlled by the Peruvian Government and limited to determined zones after payment of an entrance fee.  Our fees were included with our accommodation.   

Average temperatures range from 68-91 degrees with an annual rainfall of between 80-120 inches.  Considering we were in the rainforest I thought annual rainfall somewhat low when compared to over 400 inches annual on the island of Kauai. 

Although clouds thwarted our attempt to see the sunrise we spent a little over 6 hours cruising inside the reserve.   I believe 4-5 hours would have been sufficient, mainly because the boat did not have any type of back brace and the seating was not conducive to a 6-hour ride but, then again, maybe my age had something to do with that.  I ended up sitting on my life jacket to provide a little additional padding.  

A couple hours after leaving the lodge we maneuvered the boat to one side of river and made a brief stop for breakfast. We did not leave the boat, as there is no dry land.  It reminded me of the swamps of Louisiana but without the Spanish moss hanging from the trees.  The breakfast was well received and done quite efficiently considering we were sitting in a boat in the middle of the Amazon.  A sandwich, boiled egg and a liquid version of  yogurt was provided on individual plates along with salt, pepper and napkins.  All in all we enjoyed the experience of the morning but were glad to return to the lodge for lunch and a rest. 

After a nourishing lunch it was time to do some piranha fishing.  What an adventure and a thrill that proved to be.  I’m not sure what our poles were made from but it looked like a tree branch with a simple line and hook.  Basic but effective nonetheless.  Our guide, Carlos, took us to 4 different areas to enjoy our fishing experience.  I was surprised at how quickly the piranha would bite.  They were very smart however and trying to hook them as they nibbled away on our bait proved to be quite a challenge.  We did manage to hook several during our outing and discovered this wasn’t a catch and release.  I was surprised that, no matter what the size, we kept everything we caught.    

After a couple hours of fishing it was back to the lodge, a refreshing dip in the pool and a little rest before dinner.  Another wonderful day brought to an end by watching the sunset from our bungalow deck.   

Our final morning started with breakfast at 8am followed by a jungle walk at 9am.  Once again our guide Carlos brought to our attention the varieties of flora and fauna along the route, along with insects, snakes and other wildlife native to the jungle.  We also learned the art of using termites as a natural mosquito repellant and also how to building a shelter for spending a night in the jungle.  

At the furthest point on our hike we found hanging vines.   I expected Tarzan to swing by us at any minute.  Each of us took turns playing ‘Tarzan” by swinging on the vines that we could reach from the ground.   

Arriving back at the lodge at 11:30am gave us plenty of time to shower, pack and prepare for our 2:15pm departure dockside.   I will miss the friends we have made and also the unique experiences we encountered over the past three days.   Samiria EcoLodge has made our time in the Amazon one to remember for the ages.

Arrival at Samiria EcoLodge, Amazon

4°57'41.78"S, 73°70'96.78"W .  Just numbers, GPS coordinates that really tell you nothing, but if you search for them on Google Earth, the little yellow pin comes down on a remote and seemingly insignificant spot in the Amazon jungle, a place called Samiria EcoLodge.  Located near, and named after the Pacaya-Samiria National Reserve, the largest protected area in Peru, the ten bungalow Samiria EcoLodge represented our oasis in the Amazon jungle for three days. 

 

To get to the Samiria EcoLodge one must first fly into Iquitos, Peru, accessible only by air or boat.  Next, a 2 hour van ride to the port of Nauta, 62 miles southwest, followed by a 45 minute boat ride to the lodge, located on Maranon River, a tributary of the Amazon.   The lodge is surrounded by pristine unspoiled jungle.  

 The lodge itself is comprised of a main lodge, ten private bungalows, game room, pool area and a 40’ observation tower.    After docking one will climb several sets of steps to the main lodge.  Located considerably higher than water level, the steps to the main lodge are covered with periodic flat areas for resting.   The staff transports luggage.  This facility is not handicap accessible and I could not recommend it to anyone who has trouble maneuvering steps.  

The main lodge is large, beautifully appointed and offers panoramic views from it’s elevated vantage point.   All meals are included in the cost of your stay, along with lemonade, coffee or tea.  All alcoholic beverages, wine, beer and water are extra and paid for at time of checkout. 

Upon our arrival we were offered a local drink called ‘camu, camu’ which we came to love.   We found it blended extremely well with Malibu Coconut Rum.  A small bushy riverside tree, it bears a red/purple cherry like fruit and is extremely high in vitamin C.  We were disappointed later in the evening to find that they ran out.   It was only then that we learned they harvest the berries and prepare a fresh batch daily.   We crazy Americans thought they just opened a carton and poured it into a glass.

The elevated accommodations are nicely appointed individual bungalows with large picture windows facing the river.  Five are located on each side of the main lodge with #6-10 being uphill.  We were assigned #7 and Steve and Tamie assigned #8.  More steps.  Ah . . . but so worth it.  

 The room was very clean and configured with 1 Queen bed, 2 twins, refrigerator and a small seating area which included a couch, coffee table and 2 chairs all facing the views of the river and the Pacaya Samiria National Reserve.  We relaxed on our front porch, soaking in the spectacular views and listened to the songs of the surrounding birds.   

After a tasty lunch and a little time to relax we headed back down to the docks, boarding a boat to a small nearby village.  Here we were able to take in some local culture and learn how the indigenous people have adapted to their surroundings. 

Local youth serenaded us with song and women of the village afforded us the opportunity to purchase local handcrafted items.  It proved to be a fun afternoon.   

Electricity is available from 6pm-10pm with dinner being served at 7pm.  Only a couple of staff members spoke English but that did not deter from the excellent service and attention we received during our entire stay.  We were always able to communicate our needs so language did not pose a large problem.  When the electricity was finally shut off for the evening we gazed at the stars, listened to the unfamiliar sounds of the jungle and tried to soak in every moment of our new adventure, wondering what tomorrow would bring. 

Iquitos, Peru

           

Iquitos is the largest city in the Peruvian Rainforest with a population of almost 500,000.  Located in the region of Loredo, one of the poorest regions in Peru, it positions itself as the fifth largest city in Peru and is the largest city in the world inaccessible by road, with the exception of the small port town of Nauta, located 62 miles south.  Requiring arrival by airplane or boat, we opted to fly Star Peru.  Once in Iquitos your transportation options are limited to bus, motorcycle or auto rickshaw, more commonly called a “motocarro” with the locals.  A modified motorcycle with a cab behind supported by two wheels, you can sit three but two proved to be a more pleasant experience.

            Our arrival into Iquitos airport was late afternoon.  We hired a local taxi to take us to the Amazon Apartment Hotel.  The cost was under $10USD and took 25 minutes.  The closer we came to our destination the more manic and loud our surroundings became.  The streets became clogged with motorcycles and motocarros, none of which paid any attention to lane structure, speed limits or warning signs.  

 It was not unusual to see up to ten motorcycles abreast racing thru the streets.  The art of balancing three to four family members on one motorcycle while carrying groceries, building supplies and animals must certainly be a skill learned from youth.   

            Iquitos is sometimes nicknamed “Venice on the Amazon” because much of the city is covered in water most of the year.  Many of the houses are built on rafts that float up and down as the river rises and falls.  Other houses are built on stilts so that the water does not cover the house when the water rises.  Our guide informed us that the Amazon crested 12 feet higher than ever recorded during the month of our visit.  I have never experienced such an interesting city, and it simply proves that people can adapt and survive in the flooded forest.   The people of Iquitos are adaptable, brave and strong.  

            Perhaps the most unique experience was a quick walk through the Belen Market.  Located on the embankment in Iquitos, over 150 native communities from upriver come down to sell their produce.  The Barrio de Belén boasts a population of over 10,000 and is the hub of every village within miles around.  From our American eyes we found it to be claustrophobic, totally chaotic and filthy, yet at the same time, practical and even superstitious to the locals.  Housing an entire ‘jungle medicine’ section, one can find dozens of time-honored jungle folk remedies for many common and not-so-common illnesses and disorders.  Aphrodaisiacs and tonics for ailments ranging from sexual dysfunction to rheumatism and arthritis are displayed prominently.  

 

 

            No matter what one is looking for you can find it at the Belen Market but please avoid all bush meat and endangered species offered by the locals.  This will include caiman, alligator, turtle, turtle eggs, peccary, wild pig, deer, armadillo, carachupa, tapir, manatee, anteater and monkey, just to name a few.  Help preserve the Rainforest by not purchasing these items. 

           

 A trip through the Belen Market is not for the faint of heart or inexperienced traveller closed to cultural differences.  I would consider it unsafe to enter this area without a trusted guide, as tourists are a prime target.   We found ourselves happy to finally reach the rivers edge and board our awaiting water taxi for a quiet ride among the watery front lawns of hundreds, if not thousands, of floating houses.   

 

            

 Homes are built on balsa logs that float as the inevitable seasonal rise in the river comes.  Other homes are elevated on stilts just above the normal annual high-water mark.  This short ride also proved to be an eye-opening study in urban resilience and survival amidst poor sanitation and poverty.   By the time our boat ride had concluded we were ready to move on to the Butterfly Farm. 

            Once we were on solid ground again we commandeered two of the motocarros for a 20-minute ride to board yet another boat to the Butterfly Farm.  There are actually 2 butterfly farms in Iquitos.  The Pilpintuwasi Butterfly Farm represents the oldest and is located together with the Amazon Animal Orphanage. This is normally where all the tourist head.  Mariposario Nuevo is the newest Bufferfly Farm, only opened two years ago, and the one we selected.  

           

Mariposario Nuevo turned out to be an educational center that taught us about the rainforest eco-system.  We learned how each butterfly species has one host plant species that it lays eggs on so the larva can hatch right on the food source it needs to sustain life.  We were introduced to a wide variety of species all in various stages of development.  As finality to our tour we stepped into the enclosed atrium and experienced the grace, beauty and rainbow of colors that swirled around us.  It proved to be an enjoyable end to our time in Iquitos.