In May 2025, I joined Grand Circle’s M/V River Harmony for a 14-day river cruise from Vienna to Amsterdam—a journey filled with castles, canals, cathedrals, and charming old towns that seemed lifted straight from storybooks. Along the way, we stopped at some unforgettable ports in the heart of Bavaria.
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Three towns in particular—Regensburg, Kelheim, and Bamberg—stood out for their beauty, walkability, and immersive history. Each one offered something special: quiet parks, quirky museums, commanding hilltop views, and beer in just the right setting. Here’s how I experienced each of them, step by step.
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The morning in Kelheim began with a short bus ride at 9:00 AM, provided by Grand Circle, to visit the Liberation Hall (Befreiungshalle), an imposing neoclassical monument dramatically perched atop Michelsberg hill, high above the Danube River. Commissioned by King Ludwig I of Bavaria and completed in 1863, the hall was built to commemorate the victories of German-speaking forces over Napoleon during the Wars of Liberation (1813–1815). As we approached, the structure’s circular shape and columned facade were both elegant and commanding—clearly meant to inspire awe.
To reach the entrance, visitors must negotiate two sets of exterior stairs, which can be a bit of a climb. Each set is about 40 steps so 80-85 steps in total to get to the entrance turnstile.
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| First set of steps |
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| Second set of steps |
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| Entrance turnstile level |
Thankfully, there’s also an elevator located to the left of the building, offering easier access for those who prefer to avoid the steps.
Stepping inside the monument, I was struck by the scale of the space. The echo of footsteps on the marble floor added to the solemn atmosphere. Surrounding the interior were 34 colossal goddesses of victory, each representing one of the German states at the time, standing in pairs and holding hands as symbols of unity and strength. A golden inscription encircles the dome, urging remembrance of sacrifice and the pursuit of peace.
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| Translation: “The Germans never want to forget what made the liberation war necessary and how they won.” |
The real reward would come from climbing the spiral staircase to the exterior viewing platform.
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| Spiral staircase to lookout |
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| Signage - 165 steps to the top |
With a spiral staircase ascent of 165 steps I, however, didn’t feel compelled to make the climb. I was content to admire the monument from the ground level, appreciating its architectural beauty and significance without the extra exertion.
Should you want to take on the challenge, according to those I questioned, the panoramic views of the Altmühl and Danube valleys are absolutely breathtaking. Rolling hills, vineyards, and the winding rivers spread out below like a living landscape painting.
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| My view from the turnstile entrance level |
e returned to the ship by 10:30 AM, but I wasn’t quite ready to call it a day. I decided to walk into downtown Kelheim, a peaceful 25-minute stroll that took me through quiet residential lanes and past flower-filled windowsills. The town itself had an inviting feel—small enough to be intimate, but full of old-world character.
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| Walking from dock to downtown Welheim |
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| Tower entrance to city in sight |
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| Middle Gate entrance to city center |
I had hoped to visit a local church and a traditional brewhouse, but both were closed that day. Still, I found exactly what I needed at VOX, a local bar with a laid-back vibe. I grabbed a cold beer enjoyed the slower pace and watching the rhythm of the town around me.
Local sights around Kelheim.
The Church of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary in Kelheim is an architectural tapestry woven across centuries. Its original nave was constructed in 1420, showcasing the clean lines and pointed arches characteristic of late Gothic design. Four decades later, in 1460, the choir was added—enriching the church’s spiritual and architectural depth with a space traditionally reserved for clergy and liturgical functions. A significant addition came in 1862 when the tower, a prominent feature of the town’s skyline, was connected to the main structure. The final major expansion occurred in 1885, when the nave was enlarged to accommodate a growing congregation, blending historical continuity with practical adaptation. Today, the church stands as a quiet testament to the evolving faith and craftsmanship of Kelheim’s community through the ages.
By 12:45 PM, I was back on board the M/V River Harmony for lunch. Though my time in Kelheim was brief, it felt refreshingly unhurried. Sometimes it’s the quiet stops between bigger cities that offer the most unexpected moments of peace.
Three Bavarian towns—Regensburg, Kelheim and Bamburg, each with their own personality, added incredible depth to my river cruise. Regensburg was lively and layered with stories; Kelheim was quietly soulful; and Bamberg, almost dreamlike in its beauty. What I loved most was that each one invited me to slow down, savor the details, and walk—simply walk—through centuries of European history.
River cruising gives you access to towns that would be difficult to reach on your own, and these port days reminded me just how rewarding that kind of travel can be.
#River Cruise 2025#Kelheim#Germany#Liberation Hall
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