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Monday, December 25, 2017

GPS reading of Latitude -18° 03' 13.20" S and Longitude 177° 17' 7.80" E


A GPS reading will indicate you are at Latitude -18° 03' 13.20" S and Longitude 177° 17' 7.80" E.  Just a tiny blip on the map really but a place where authentic Fijian culture is at it’s finest.
Reception area at Robinson Crusoe Island
Robinson Crusoe Island

Robinson Crusoe Island is a laid back, eco-friendly, casual island, only 25 acres in size, located off the southwest coast of Fiji's main Viti Levu island.  A place where you can do everything listed on the daily activities board or you can do nothing at all. 
Activities available on the island

First known as the sacred island of Likuri, this stunningly beautiful tiny island has a history that dates back 3,500 years to when the first Polynesians landed in their outrigger canoes.  A recent pottery site discovered on the island dates back to 1500 BC. 



Not to be confused with an island of the same name located off the coast of Chile, Fiji consists of 322 islands in the beautiful South Pacific with only 106 being inhabited.  The islands of Viti Levu and Vanua Levu account for three-quarters of the total land area of the entire country.   The island is only accessible by boat, which includes a scenic 30 minute jungle river cruise followed by a short trip across the lagoon.
Check in booth at the jetty
Loaded and ready to head to Robinson Crusoe Island
Robinson Crusoe Island places high emphasis on cleanliness and serves fresh, healthy Fijian style cuisine, offering the freshest seafood, typically caught that morning, along with chicken, fresh fruits and vegetables from nearby villages.   Drinks include water, soft drinks, wine and beer and are served from a thatched roof bure.  No need to bring money, they will just put it on your tab.  
The morning catch of the day

Lali drum used to announce meals were ready
Buffet Line
Sesting area



Checking in was a delightful treat.  As the boat reduced it’s speed and began slowly making it’s way to shore, you suddenly realize that the people standing on the beach singing and waving are staff members, exuberantly greeting your arrival.  As you get closer and closer to shore you see the true sincerity on their faces.  They are genuinely glad you have come to their island to experience their culture.  
Welcome to the island


Now what would an overnight stay on a private island be like if you couldn’t experience a private little bungalow.  Marci and I were assigned Bure Levu #4.  These units are built using local natural materials.  Inside we found coffee and tea making facilities along with free bottled water daily.  An adorable private bathroom was located just a few steps outside, complete with towels and toiletries.  I especially loved the open-air shower that had just been upgraded to include hot water.  Ahhhh. . . . .it was great. 
Bure Levu #4

Patio area at Bure Levu #4
Twin Bed confirguation
Bathroom facility


Private bathroom

Private bathroom
Open-air shower with hot water

You might notice the red container of water on our deck.  This was fresh each morning and used to rinse off our feet before entering the room.  I loved the added touch of hibiscus floating on top.  Just such a tropical feel.

Our little bungalow
Now that we were all settled in the bure, the next question was “What do we do now?” A quick look at the activities board listed the choices for the day of snorkeling, weaving, lovo digging, fire walking, lunch, island entertainment, bush walk, turtle viewing and crab races.  So much to do. . . . . . so little time.  
So much to do. . . . .so little time
Soon it would be time for lunch but first would be the lovo ceremony, followed immediately by the famous fire-walkers of Fiji.   One of the main reasons I made the stop in Fiji was to witness the world famous fire-walkers.   I had read that the walkers are Sawau tribesmen from Beqa, a small village of only 3,000 inhabitants located 7 miles north of Viti.  Here is the legend of the Fiji Fire-Walkers:
It’s said the Sawau lived in a mountain village on Beqa called Navakeisese. When they weren’t off to wars with other tribes (and chowing down on their prisoners), they enjoyed lighter moments listening to tales told by Dredre, their tribal storyteller. In return, it was customary for the people of the village to bring gifts to Dredre.

One day, as the legend goes, Dredre asked each person in the audience to bring him gifts of the first things they found the next time they went hunting.

A day later, one of the warriors called Tui-na-Iviqalita went fishing for eels in a mountain stream. The first thing he caught felt like an eel. But when he pulled it out of the mud, it turned out to be a talking, snake-like “Spirit God.”

Wow, what a gift that would be. Tui scurried off to present his catch to Dredre, but along the way the god offered Tui all kinds of bribes to let him go. Tui refused — until the god came up with this awesome offer: power over fire.

That got Tui’s attention, but he wanted proof of the power.

No problem. The god changed form, dug a pit, lined it with stones, and then lit a great fire on the stones. When the stones were white with heat, the god invited Tui to take a walk on them. He did it — without burning his feet!

And of course Tui let the god go.

To this day, according to the legend, members of the Sawau tribe are able to walk on white hot stones, and direct descendants of Tui-na-Iviqalita still act as bete, or high priest, of the firewalkers of Fiji.
Whether you believe in this legend or not, watching this amazing display left me feeling like there must be something to the legend.   I have accidentally put my foot on a hot rock that had been sitting too close to our campfire and I can say with certainty that “IT’S HOT”.  It produced a nice blister on the bottom of my foot.  Unless these guys soak their feet in fire-proof gel first, they are, without a doubt, walking on hot rocks and not getting burned.  Believe me, I checked the bottom of their feet.

Taking food off coals
Getty ready for fire-walkers
 
Fire-Walker

Lunch was ready and served buffet style with garden salad, a local root crop vegetable, chicken and fish. It was during lunch the first day that we were entertained with a Fijian culture program, featuring Pacific Island dancers, as well as fire and knife dancers. 

 







Next it was weaving, followed by crab races.




Crab races
There is a swing located just down the beach.  The ropes extend several feet in the air and are affixed to a palm tree.  Hang on when you sit down.  The swaying of the palm tree lends itself nicely to a fun experience.  

Now it was just time to relax for the rest of the evening.  Marci and I claimed ‘our spots’ which found us sitting under slightly swaying palm trees, stretched out on our favorite lounge chairs.  As we sipped our Chardonnay, the sun slipped slowly into the beautiful blue Pacific.  Along with the slight waves crashing onto the sandy beach and the soft island music playing in the background, one can’t help but think they have arrived in paradise.
Our spots

You will want to leave your shoes in your suitcase.  NOT wearing shoes is the norm.   Even as a young child I never liked wearing shoes so I loved this benefit. The resort features an unfiltered salt-water pool that is filled and cleaned each morning.  The sand on the beach is also raked each day.  

Groomed sand paths
Salt Water pool

Salt Water Pool
At a cost of $60FJD, $30USD, for a 60-minute massage, my favorite daily activity became a full body massage with Taru (Tarusila) in the Spa bure.  Taru places you in an environment conducive for relaxation, uses great smelling oils and with her soft-spoken voice and gentle hands, she applies just the right amount of pressure, always checking to make sure you are comfortable. 
 
Taru
Entrance to Spa Bure
Foot bath before entering

On our second day Marci asked if they could harvest some coconuts.  She loves drinking the coconut milk, then splitting the coconut in half and eating the gel.  Without hesitation Paka took the group to a nearby coconut tree.  Within seconds he had climbed to the top and coconuts began hitting the ground.  He harvested somewhere between 20-25, enough for each person to have one.  
Marci got her coconuts




Saturday night on Robinson Crusoe Island was nothing short of spectacular.  It started with a kava ceremony where one is welcomed into the family. I had been told that drinking of the kava was similar to drinking left over water from washing out your socks but I found it much more palatable than had been portrayed.  Instructions are given at the ceremony.  Please refrain from laughing and be respectful as this is a solemn ceremony for the Fijian people.  You may be offered “high tide” or “low tide”.  I had “low tide” which simply means your cup will be half full.   As you prepare to receive the kava you will clap once with a cupped hand and yell “Bula”.  You then drink your full, or half, cup in one gulp.  No strange looks, gagging or spitting it out.  You then clap three times and say “Mathe”.  You are now part of the family.  This is a lovely tradition and I would recommend you try it.  
Ready for Kava ceremony
Kava Ceremony with Paka

The  beach bonfire is set and burns down quickly.  It is at this point you are given an opportunity to purchase local crafts.  The finale of the day is the evening show.  It opens with flaming torches being thrown back and forth over the rooftops.  With numerous costume changes, the dancers portray both the aggressive male nature and the beauty and expressive movement of the females.  One of my favorite dances was the couples dance.  It was beautifully choreographed and masterfully delivered, to the point of bringing tears to my eyes.  The final number for the evening is nothing short of spectacular.  I have seen many Polynesian shows before but never anything on the level presented at Robinson Crusoe Island.  

Bonfire


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Grand Finale


If you want to experience something truly unique then book a stay at Robinson Crusoe Island.  Margarita and the staff did a fantastic job in making Marci and I feel like part of the family.  If you leave this island and are not emotionally moved, check your pulse.  You very possibly could be dead. 
Our new family