TURRIALBA, COSTA RICA

The fourth and final element of the Travelling Spanish Classroom was Turrialba, Costa Rica.

Entrance sign to "Spanish by the River" in Turrialba

I found Turrialba to be very scenic and a relatively quiet town with a population of just over 35,000.  Tourism is one of the main industries in Turrialba.  The Pacuare and Reventazón Rivers are most noted for whitewater rafting and entices rafting enthusiasts from around the world.

Arial view of Turrialba.  Photo:Public Domain

Ingrid’s “Spanish by the River” hostel and school is located in the hills above downtown Turrialba and affords some spectacular views of the downtown area as well as Turrialba Volcano at a height of 10,958 feet and Irazu’ Volcano, the highest active volcano in Costa Rica at a height of 11,260 feet. 

View of Turrialba

View of the volcano from the hostel

Sunday’s challenge would be the move from Bocas del Toro, Panama to Turrialba, Costa Rica using the local transportation.  It began at 8am when Marci and I left the Bocas hostel and began walking to the Almirante water taxi.  There are two water taxi locations fairly close to each other as we discovered by going to the wrong one.  We went to the one located AFTER the police station.  Ingrid finally found us and brought us to the correct one that is located next door to Hotel Bocas Town and BEFORE the police station.  I was glad she was able to locate us as she was holding our return tickets. 

Water taxi to Almirante

Entrance to water taxi

Hotel Bocas Town

The water taxi to Almirante took 30 minutes.  It did not surprise me that Ingrid had arranged for a taxi to meet us dockside and transport us to the Panama/Costa Rica immigration checkpoint.

Coming into Almirante

The taxi would be a one-hour trip that would take us through a scenic wonderland of lush trees and small farms.  The road is winding with 2 lanes but the road condition was good.  The most striking feature during the trip was the sheer number of banana plantations for miles and miles on both sides of the road.  

Banana plantations on the way to the border

After 40 minutes of driving we came to a town named Changuinola. It was here that our taxi driver relayed the story that the Chiquita Company had signed a 100-year contract with Panama for growing, harvesting and exporting bananas from Costa Rica but in the year 2000 that contract expired.  The Panamanian government failed to renew the contract and forced the Chiquita Company to leave Panama.  This action resulted in the local population taking possession of the 266 vacant banana farms surrounding the city of Chanquinola.

The time was 10am and it was raining when we arrived at the Panama/Costa Rica immigration checkpoint.  

Arriving at the Panama/Costa Rica immigration checkpoint

Waiting in line

Here we entered a line that said “EXIT TO COSTA RICA”.  Once all four of us had been cleared we then needed to maneuver ourselves and our luggage up some steps before starting across the bridge.   

Ready to move on

At the top of the steps I was able to finally see the length of the bridge we needed to cross.  I would estimate the distance to be around 500 feet.  

It was raining the day we crossed this bridge.  Photo: Public Domain

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Once on the other side it was necessary to stop at a second Costa Rica immigration point for processing. The wait at this location was longer than the first checkpoint but thankfully we were under a cover and out of the rain. 

Second checkpoint and another wait

Once all four of us were cleared it was back into the rain and down several steps as we made our way to the bus station.  These steps did not have a handrail and due to all the rain there was a very large accumulation of water at the bottom. Unfortunately, you could not avoid walking through it.  It was then another 300 feet of gravel to the bus station.  Roller bags do not roll well on gravel so I ended up carrying my bag. 

Terrain on the way to the bus station

Walking to the bus station

Arriving at the bus station

Waiting for the bus

Finally, we made it to the bus station.  I looked at my clock and it was only 9:54am.  With the time change we managed to lose an hour just walking over the bridge.  Our bus was scheduled to depart at 10am and Ingrid purchased our tickets.  The cost was included in the school tuition fees. 

Finally on the bus to Siquirres

We boarded the bus at 10:02 and left the station shortly thereafter.  At 12:30 we made a stop in Limon for lunch.  

I had learned from our lunch stop experience in Panama that it was best to buy something “to go”.  Marci and I bought two warm ham and cheese sandwiches on sub rolls.  In addition, we each bought a chicken empanada. The total for both of us was $6. 

Lunch stop in Lim

Finally a quick run to the bathroom, at a cost of $200 colon, and it was time to get back on the bus.  We left promptly at 12:45. This was a 15-minute stop for lunch and bathroom. 

Pay to get into the bathrooms

As we drove out of Limon we passed three very large container facilities located next to the port.  They were Dole 

Del Monte and Chiquita.  

As we were leaving Limon Ingrid informed us that we would be getting off the bus in the small town of Siquirres.   

At 1:30pm the bus pulled to the side of the road.  The driver unloaded our luggage from underneath the bus and placed it on the side of the road.  He then quickly re-boarded the bus and drove out of sight.  I had anticipated that we would be arriving at a bus station in Siquirres but we were literally standing on the side of the road and now would need to walk into Siquirres. 

A walk into Siquirres to find the bus station

The weather in Siquirres was warm and humid but at least it wasn’t raining.  Ingrid led the way to the bus station.  The bus to Turrialba was scheduled for departure at 2pm and it was 1:45pm.  Perfect timing.  The buses from Siquirres to Turrialba operate every hour on the hour.   

Ingrid purchasing our tickets

Our bus to Turrialba

Settling in for the ride to Turrialba

The bus ride to the enchanting little town of Turrialba took us over mountains on a very steep and winding road.  The scenery was impressive, made up of fertile lands, vibrant green pastures and incredible natural beauty.  It reminded me of my home state of Oregon with the exception of only seeing one marijuana grow sight.  Agriculture is the principal industry in Turrialba and it is also the only place allowed to produce the popular Costa Rican “Turrialba” cheese.   

  

Arriving into the bus station at Turrialba

Heading to the Supermarket before going to the hostel

The “Spanish by the River” hostel and school in Turrialba is, in a word, FANTASTIC!  Ingrid and her family occupy the top floors with the hostel and school on the lower floors. 

Entrance into the hostel

Ingrid lives in the top floor and the hostel is in the bottom

The kitchen

The living area

One of the classrooms

On the deck

Another classroom

Hammock area

The hostel is located about a 5-minute drive from Turrialba town center and the bus stop is located right next to the hostel entrance.  The cost to take the bus into town is $235 Colon which is equal to $0.39.  Ingrid also provides you with a copy of the bus schedule. 

Bus stop net to hostel entrance

Bus schedule

I found the shared kitchen to be very organized and well equipped with pots and pans, a good set of knives and 2 refrigerator freezers.  Complimentary coffee and tea were also available 24/7, as was the free wi-fi.  The common living area was very spacious with some stunning volcano and rain forest views from the deck.  We had comfortable clean beds and also enjoyed hot water for showers. 

Shared room

Bathroom

Shower

view from the deck of the hostel

view from the deck of the hostel

We would begin each morning on the deck watching and listening to the local wildlife.  Each day would bring a variety of birds, including hummingbirds, gray headed Chachalacas, a pair of rainbow-billed toucans and a chestnut-headed Oropendula. We also had rabbits, squirrels and a couple of resident ozo perozzo, 3-toed sloths, that would entertain us daily. 

Hummingbirds

Chestnut headed Oropendula

Rainbow billed toucan

Gray headed chachalaca

3 toes sloth

Daily breakfast is included in the tuition costs.  Breakfast would be a variety of items and would be ready between 7:15-7:30am.  Fernando is a great cook and we enjoyed all the meals he prepared for us while in Turrialba.

Breakfast on the deck daily

Sample breakfast

Fruit every day

Monday morning at 8am we met Susanna, our Spanish teacher for our week in Turrialba.  We were also introduced to another ‘beginning’ student by the name of Jonathan from Leeds in the United Kingdom.  He had already been in Turrialba for 3 weeks under the tutorage of Susanna and he graciously allowed Jasmine and I to join his sessions for our last week.   

Classroom 1

Classroom 2

Susanna spoke little English so I found this week to be a little more challenging than the previous three.  I did enjoy her teaching style and use of various games.  By the end of the week I felt I was finally beginning to understand the majority of what she was saying. 

Memory game

Class was over at noon and our afternoon was free so Fernando and Ingrid drove Marci and I into town.  They gave us a short tour of downtown and then dropped us in front of the sporting goods store.  It was here we changed some US dollars to Costa Rica colon.  They charged a $2 fee for the exchange.

After wandering aimlessly through the streets Marci and I managed to find our way to the local bus station.  We each paid the $235 colon for the short ride back up the hill to the hostel.  The bus back to the hostel operates every hour on the hour.  Look for the bus with the sign “Juan Vinas” in the window.  We pulled out of the bus station at 4pm and we were back inside our hostel by 4:20pm. No planned activity was planned for Monday night. 

Tuesday’s activity was a cooking class with Fernando.  The menu item would be a traditional Costa Rican soup he called Sopa Negro.  We prepared it for lunch.  

Fernando ready for cooking class

He made the best rice for the soup

Sopa Negro

Shortly after 2pm Marci and I caught the bus to Juan Vinas. 

The cost was $400 colon per person, about $0.67.  The trip took 20 minutes and let us off in downtown Juan Vinas about 2 blocks from the local church. 

Church at Juan Vinas

Inside the church at Juan V

This little town is strategically situated between the Irazú and Turrialba volcanoes and capitalizes on the rich volcanic soils, perfect altitude and ideal micro climate producing some of the country's best coffee, sugar and macadamia nut crops.

After touring through the church we went to the local supermarket and then to a bakery directly across the street.  We could not resist the temptation and found ourselves purchasing four small desserts at a total cost of $0.68. 

We would save them for after dinner.  There really isn’t much in Juan Vinas other than the church and a sugar cane factory but the scenery to get there was stunning. 

Terrain on the drive to Juan Vinas

Sugar cane factory

We caught the return bus directly in front of the supermarket at 3:30pm and arrived back at the hostel at 3:50pm.   Our evening was free.  

Spanish class on Wednesday made my brain hurt.  I was totally exhausted at the end of 4 hours.  After a short break and a bite to eat Marci, Jasmine and I took the bus into downtown Turrialba, returning at 4:30pm.  Our activity for the evening was salsa lessons.  Ingrid pre-arranged for a taxi to transport five of us from the hostel to the dance studio in downtown Turrialba.  

Getting ready for our salsa lesson

We finished our dance lesson at 8pm and then walked to a local bar for a beer.  Ingrid once again arranged for a taxi to take us back to the hostel.  The taxi rides and the dance lessons were included in the school tuition fees. 

Thursday’s activity was listed as an overnight whitewater rafting trip.  Physical limitations precluded Marci and I from participating, resulting in Thursday, Friday and Saturday without organized activities.  This did not pose a problem for either of us.  On Thursday we took the bus to town and then hired a taxi to take us out to CATIE. At our request Ingrid arranged a private tour for us.  This activity was on our own so the cost was not included in the school tuition fees.  Ingrid still secured a student rate of only $15 each. 

CATIE is the Tropical Agricultural Research and Higher Education Center.  It is a regional center dedicated to research and graduate education in agriculture, and the management, conservation and sustainable use of natural resources. Its members include Belize, Bolivia, Colombia, Costa Rica, Dominican Republic, El Salvador, Guatemala, Honduras, Mexico, Nicaragua, Panama, Paraguay, Venezuela, the Inter-American Institute for Cooperation on Agriculture (IICA) and the State of Acre in Brazil.  Our guide was Edgar and our tour lasted 1 hour and 20 minutes.

Friday morning we awoke to the sight of spewing ash from the Irazú volcano. 

Classes were over at 12noon on Friday and within minutes I received my certificate of completion for 70 hours of instruction. 

Graduation day

After graduation Jasmine, Marci, Jonathan and I took the bus into town and went to the Mercado for lunch.  One of the entrances is located right across the street from the Terminal de Buses on Calle 2.  There are several restaurants inside the Mercado but we selected one that was very busy.  We decided it must be good if all the locals eat here and we were right.  They served large portions, well prepared with a nice presentation and at a very reasonable price.  Including the house fruit drink it came to $4 per person. 

Entrance to the Mervado

Lunch at the Mercado

The house fruit drink at the Mercado

Jasmine volunteered to cook dinner for us so we made a quick trip to the Supermercado, located adjacent to the bus station, where Jasmine purchased the items she needed.  Back at the hostel we invited Ingrid to join us for Happy Hour while we waited for dinner.  This would be our last night together with Jasmine.  She was heading to Peru to hike the Inca trail.  We invited Ingrid to also join us for our last dinner together.  Jasmine served up a fantastic meal that included fried fish, potatoes, salad, wine and, because Jasmine was from Switzerland, ended with Swiss chocolate. 

Saturday would find Jasmine leaving at 11am.  After being together for 4 weeks we found it difficult to say goodbye to our new friend.   After the door to the taxi closed and we waved goodbye, Marci and I headed back inside the hostel.  We simply sat and reflected on what we had accomplished, people we had met and places we had been over the past four weeks. 

Our evening was uneventful and reflective.  We finished the night watching a movie together and relaxing for the remainder of our time in Turrialba.

Sunday morning was breakfast as usual.  Today at 11am we would have to say goodbye to Ingrid.  After being together 24/7 for a month I felt like Dorothy in the Wizard of Oz when she said to Scarecrow “Leaving you will be the hardest of all.”    

If my China trip had not cancelled I would never have met this incredible lady.  I don’t believe that things just “happen”.   God brought Ingrid into my life for a reason.  Sometimes people cross our paths who leave an indelible mark on us, Ingrid is such a person. 

“Pura Vida” and “Bien Viaje” my friend.  I look forward to seeing you again some day.