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Saturday, November 17, 2018

BOCAS DEL TORO, PANAMA


The third element of the Travelling Spanish Classroom was Bocas del Toro, Panama, the cradle of the Chiquita banana empire

Entrance to Spanish by the Sea in Bocas del Toro, Panama
Inside the Hostel

Kitchen area in the hostel
Inside the hostel
Stairs to our room

Inside the hostel

Inside the hostel

Kitchen area at the hostel

Inside the hostel

Inside the hostel


Bocas del Toro is a province in Panama, comprised of approximately 1,800 square miles, including mainland as well as 9 main islands on the northwest coast of Panama.  


Map of the islands
Our goal for Saturday, using only public transportation, was to navigate our way from Boquete, Panama to our new hostel and school located in the town of Bocas del Toro on Isla Colon,  the main island in the Bocas del Toro archipelago.  

 
Bocas del Toro archipelago

After Ricardo had prepared a fantastic farewell breakfast for us in Boquete, we walked the short distance to the bus stop, luggage in tow.  The bus arrived at 9:15am and was already 3/4 full when we boarded.  Ingrid purchased our tickets from the driver.  The fare is $1.75 one-way and is included in the school tuition cost.  This was a nice newer bus, all red interior with red lighting. 
Inside our bus from Boquete to David
Between Alto Boquete and the town of David I counted 20 stops, putting us into the city of David at 10:12am.  Here we changed to a smaller white bus that only seated about 30.  The seats were very small and I found them to be somewhat uncomfortable.  One annoying part of the trip was the incessant beat and volume of the music that played for the entire trip.  I suppose if I was 20 instead of 70 years old this wouldn't have been so annoying.
Bus from David to Almirante
Inside the bus.  The big screen TV took 2 seats

Selfie on the bus

Ready to leave David
At our fifth stop our bus was surrounded by locals trying to sell a variety of items at our windows.  Marci purchased a bag with 4 pealed oranges at a cost of $0.50. 



A stop with roadside vendors

Pearled oranges
I would liken this bus ride to a cross between a Disneyland “Mr Toad’s Wild Ride” and “The Matterhorn”. 


Our lunch stop would finally come at 12:53pm and lasted exactly 21 minutes.  I ordered fried rice with beef, chicken and shrimp and also bought a cheese turnover and water.  What I ate of the food really was excellent and the total cost was only $4.  Unfortunately, I only got to eat about half of it before the bus was ready to leave.  If I had to do this route again I would order my food “go to” and try to eat on the bus as difficult as that may have been.
Ingrid ordering her lunch
Nice and clean with plenty of seating at the lunch stop
Fried rice with chicken, beef and shrimp. Also a cheese turnover

Our bus pulled into the city of Almirante, Panama at 2:30pm.   This town was essentially built by the United Fruit Company as a port for banana exports.  Valencia Tours operates a water taxi to Isla Colon and their office is located about 2km from the bus station.  You could probably walk this but once again Ingrid had worked her magic and arranged for a private taxi to transport us and our luggage from the bus station to the dock.  The cost for the taxi was only $1 per person and, like always, was included in the school tuition fees. 
Water taxi office

Ingrid and Marci checking in at the water taxi
Our boat from Almirante to Isla Colon would leave at 3pm.  As a foreigner a round-trip ticket would run $10.  The cost is included in the school tuition fees.

Our transportation to Bocas del Toro
The boat would take 30 minutes, putting us into the town of Bocas del Toro at 3:30pm. 

Ready to go
Arriving into Bocas del Toro

From the boat dock Ingrid led us down Main Street toward the hostel and school, which is located just 1 block off of Main Street. 

Walking on Main Street

Ingrid and Jasmine making their way to the hostel

Sights along Main Street

Sights along Main Street

Sights along Main Street

Sights along Main Street

Turning right at this corner as we head to the hostel
The entrance to the hostel in our sights

Spanish by the Sea” in Bocas was founded in 1998 and is the largest of four hostels/schools owned and operated by Ingrid. This is a 2-story facility that can accommodate up to 30 students. The Bocas school has a large front garden with fruit and palm trees, tropical plants, lounge chairs and hammocks.  The school is designed with 8 teaching stations with a very relaxed environment for classes.



Bocas is noted for crystal clear waters, white sand beaches, world-famous waves, colorful coral reefs and abundance of marine life.  In addition to it’s vibrant nightlife, every Friday is “Filthy Friday”.  

This is a daytime island-hopping party crawl that includes 3 locations on 3 islands.  
Photo: Public Domain
Photo: Public Domain
It didn't take us long to settle into our new environment.  
 
Marci and I shared a room

Once we had settled into our room and had finished orientation, we walked to Mamallena’s
Entrance to Mamallena's

Situated on Avenida Norte, Mamallena’s is only a 5 minutes walk to Main Street and about a 10-12 minute walk from the school.  After our first night at Mamallena’s we knew this would be our “go to” spot for Happy Hour drinks.  
Bar area at Mamallena's
Deck area at Mamallena's
Our first class in Bocas was on a Sunday.  It was rescheduled from Thursday to Sunday to accommodate a planned activity Ingrid had arranged for Thursday morning.  Class would run from 8am-12noon.   
Our teacher Patricio
L to R:  Fellow student Jasmine, our teacher Patricio and myself
After school we had free time to familiarize ourselves with Bocas. The downtown area is relatively small and very easy to cover in an afternoon.  Happy Hour at Meramallena’s is nightly from 4-8pm.  It’s a beautiful location right on the ocean and a great place to watch the sunset.   
Sunset on the patio of Mamallena's

On our way back to the hostel we made a quick stop at a local grocery store.  We were in bed by 10pm.

Tuesday after school was another free day.  Marci, Jasmine and I walked to Main Street and paid $1 for a 2 minute water taxi ride to Caranero Island.  Not sure I need to go back here again.  This island definitely needs assistance with sanitary problems. 
Our water taxi to Caranero Island







While on the island we decided to make a visit to the bar that hosts the “Filthy Friday” event. 




We each had a beer here and then took the water taxi back to Bocus.  We then walked down to the park and picked up a local bus to Playa del Drago.  The cost was $2.50 per person and the ride takes about 30 minutes to go 15 km. 
Bus to Playa del Drago
Along the way to Playa del Drago we passed the Plastico Museum.  Be sure and stop here.  In 2012, Canadian entrepreneur Robert Bezeau began a recycling program in Bocas del Toro after realizing that locals were mostly filling their garbage bags to the brim with plastic. His plastic bottle village consists of 83 acres of farm land that he purchased in 2012.  It is laid out to eventually feature 120 homes in addition to a community garden, a small boutique, and green zones for mini-parks and even a yoga pavilion. Plastic bottles serve as the walls of every building, with tens of thousands neatly contained within cages of steel rebar that builders then stack on one another. Rocks also fill the cages to help maintain the structure’s rigidity. A one-inch mix of cement plaster then covers this interior armor on both sides to offer the illusion that these houses are just like any other. Living in one, Bezeau claims, will be no different from residing in a home constructed of more conventional material. Each will feature standard plumbing, electricity, windows and doors, a septic tank system, and gutters.















The bus route literally ends at Playa del Drago beach.  The bus will remain here for 30 minutes before heading back to downtown Bocas. Here you can find a small restaurant and bar.  We left the beach at 4:30pm and arrived back into downtown Bocas at 5:05pm.












Once we were back in downtown Bocas, Jasmine walked back to the hostel for a Joga class.  Marci and I stopped at Mana Restaurant and Bar.  This is a great little restaurant that serves a $9 pizza and $1 beers. We split a falafel appetizer and then ordered a pepperoni pizza.  The evening special included a bottle of Chardonnay for $10 if ordered with the pizza.  Our total bill was $25 so we spent $7.50 per person on food and $10 for the bottle of wine. 

Front of Mana Restaurant and Bar
Outside seating
We then walked back to the hostel making a couple of stops along the way at some local shops. We were back at the hostel by 7:30pm.



There would be no school on Thursday as Ingrid had arranged for a catamaran sail.  The $59 price was included in the school tuition cost. 

After breakfast we walked a short 2 minutes to the boat dock where we boarded Jager Knights, our catamaran for the day.  The boat was operated by Bocas del Toro Catamaran.  

Jager Knight's Catamaran
Jager Knights is a 42 foot French-made catamaran and has been successfully operating for over 2 years in Bocas Del Toro. 




The catamaran features

  • snorkel gear - fins, mask and snorkel
  • two washrooms on board
  • fresh water hose for rinsing off
  • large heat-protective canopy over the cockpit to provide plenty of cool shaded area
  • high quality net webbing at the bow to relax on & work on your tan
  • cooler with ice to store outside beverages and food (if desired)
  • propeller protectors on engine props for people & dolphins
  • extra strong swim ladder for embarking & disembarking the boat to swim and/or snorkel
  • Bose music sound system for the perfect sailing soundtrack
  • ...and for those of you sail-savvy people who know the lingo- 4 double berths, 3 sails, a draft of 3 feet, and 8.5' x 14.5' nets

Ingrid checking in with the Captain
With 16 on board, Captain Maga set our course for Dolphin Bay Preserve, a lagoon in Bocas del Toro that hosts bottlenose dolphins throughout much of the year. The bay has calm waters and is surrounded by mangroves, which draw an abundance of small fish and crustaceans into the water.







A few minutes before noon Captain Maga made the first of two snorkel stops.  Several barracuda and oysters were spotted but at least 5 were stung by jellyfish. 

Marci enjoying the water

 At 12:40pm lunch was served which consisted of chicken alfredo and bread.   



Lunch onboard
We left at 1:15pm and headed to the second snorkel location, arriving at 2:15pm.   We stayed at this stop until 3:17pm at which point Captain Maga set the sail for our trip back to Bocas. We docked back in Bocas at 4pm. 
Fruit served on the wayback

L to R:  Marci and Sharon

Sharon helping the Captain

L to R:  Sharon, Marci and Ingrid
Ingrid taking over as Captain
Back to the hostel and a quick shower and change of clothes before heading out to Restaurant Tom for dinner. This is a local hangout that you may miss at first.  You will need to head upstairs in a concrete market building, walk to the back of the building and you'll find it on a shaded 2nd-floor terrace overlooking the water. It offers great views, tasty food and reasonable prices. 
Dinner at Restaurant Tom
They close at 5pm so we arrived at 4:45pm and were able to order just before closing.  Our total cost was $5 each.

After eating we walked to Mamallena’s for Happy Hour.  At 9pm we headed back to the hostel for the night.    



Ingrid scheduled salsa dance lessons for our Wednesday activity.  The class wasn’t scheduled until 7pm so we decided to walk down to Mana Restaurant and Bar again for pizza and beer. 






Our Thursday afternoon activity would include a tour of the Smithsonian Tropical Research Center. Our tour was scheduled for 3pm.  Through our tour guide we learned about the work of STRI scientists, were able to visit the lab facilities, the touch tanks and also walk on the nature trail, spotting a sloth along the way. Admission is free but donations are accepted and are used to support their education programs. 
Our tour guide







We took a taxi from the Smithsonian Research Center to Mamallena’s for Happy Hour.  We left at 5:30pm and walked back to the hostel, arriving at 5:45pm.  Ingrid had arranged for a cooking class beginning at 6pm.  It would be lead by Marci, one of the resident teachers living at the hostel.
First - the menu
Some of the foods needed




Preparing the food
Cooking


Finished product
Friday would be a relaxing day with some local shopping, a stop at a grocery store and a little relaxation.  At 5pm a resident Argentinan couple began making pizza for the group.  Ingrid once again prepared her ‘secret’ sangria recipe.  Pizza, sangria and conversation was the order for the evening as we met students from around the world. 




Ingrid's secret recipe for Sangria
Enjoying pizza and sangria with friends

Saturday would be our last day on Bocas del Toro.  Ingrid arranged for one final activity while on the island and it proved to be outstanding.  After breakfast we walked to the boat docks for a 9:00am departure for our day island tour.  This tour would include a trip around sloth island where we were able to spot 4 different sloths.  From here we headed to Bastiamentos Island 

arriving at 10:30am.  








Lunch was pre-ordered at Jasmine Restaurant.  

Jasmin Restaurant
The boat then left for it’s designated snorkel spot.  Marci and I made the decision to not go snorkeling so we remained on the island soaking in the beauty of the day. 






The group snorkeled in 2 different places and then returned to the island, arriving at 12:30pm.  Marci and I split a plate of rice and Creole Shrimp.  The cost was $15 and beer was $2.25 each.
Rice with Creole Shrimp
We left at 1:30 and headed next to Zapatilla Island.  

The trip took about 30 minutes.





We had been on the island about 20 minutes when I felt a raindrop.  As we began to move to the island shelter the wind speed began to pick up and the rain picked up.  Within 10 minutes it turned into a tropical storm.  Our group huddled in the small shelter for over an hour.  Most everyone was cold so Captain Mikey made us some well received coffee. As the wind and rain began to let up a bit, Captain Mikey prepared some beautiful fruit for the group.

After enjoying the fruit we made our way to our boat, leaving the island at 3:30pm. It was still raining fairly hard as we raced toward Bocas at high speed.  We docked back in Bocas at 4:15pm.  We were all soaked.
L to R:  Sharon, Ingrid


We all got soaked on our ride back to Bocas
Drenched from the boat trip back to Bocas
Marci - drenched from the boat trip back to Bocas
After a change of clothes Marci and I walked a couple blocks to La Iguana Restaurant on Main Street.  

 


 


They were offering a Happy Hour Special of a medium pizza and a drink for only $6.  We split the pizza and ordered 1 extra beer at a total cost of $8. 





Sunday would be our travel day to our fourth and final element of the Travelling Spanish Classroom, the final hostel and school of Turrialba,Costa Rica.  












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