Iquitos, Peru

           

Iquitos is the largest city in the Peruvian Rainforest with a population of almost 500,000.  Located in the region of Loredo, one of the poorest regions in Peru, it positions itself as the fifth largest city in Peru and is the largest city in the world inaccessible by road, with the exception of the small port town of Nauta, located 62 miles south.  Requiring arrival by airplane or boat, we opted to fly Star Peru.  Once in Iquitos your transportation options are limited to bus, motorcycle or auto rickshaw, more commonly called a “motocarro” with the locals.  A modified motorcycle with a cab behind supported by two wheels, you can sit three but two proved to be a more pleasant experience.

            Our arrival into Iquitos airport was late afternoon.  We hired a local taxi to take us to the Amazon Apartment Hotel.  The cost was under $10USD and took 25 minutes.  The closer we came to our destination the more manic and loud our surroundings became.  The streets became clogged with motorcycles and motocarros, none of which paid any attention to lane structure, speed limits or warning signs.  

 It was not unusual to see up to ten motorcycles abreast racing thru the streets.  The art of balancing three to four family members on one motorcycle while carrying groceries, building supplies and animals must certainly be a skill learned from youth.   

            Iquitos is sometimes nicknamed “Venice on the Amazon” because much of the city is covered in water most of the year.  Many of the houses are built on rafts that float up and down as the river rises and falls.  Other houses are built on stilts so that the water does not cover the house when the water rises.  Our guide informed us that the Amazon crested 12 feet higher than ever recorded during the month of our visit.  I have never experienced such an interesting city, and it simply proves that people can adapt and survive in the flooded forest.   The people of Iquitos are adaptable, brave and strong.  

            Perhaps the most unique experience was a quick walk through the Belen Market.  Located on the embankment in Iquitos, over 150 native communities from upriver come down to sell their produce.  The Barrio de Belén boasts a population of over 10,000 and is the hub of every village within miles around.  From our American eyes we found it to be claustrophobic, totally chaotic and filthy, yet at the same time, practical and even superstitious to the locals.  Housing an entire ‘jungle medicine’ section, one can find dozens of time-honored jungle folk remedies for many common and not-so-common illnesses and disorders.  Aphrodaisiacs and tonics for ailments ranging from sexual dysfunction to rheumatism and arthritis are displayed prominently.  

 

 

            No matter what one is looking for you can find it at the Belen Market but please avoid all bush meat and endangered species offered by the locals.  This will include caiman, alligator, turtle, turtle eggs, peccary, wild pig, deer, armadillo, carachupa, tapir, manatee, anteater and monkey, just to name a few.  Help preserve the Rainforest by not purchasing these items. 

           

 A trip through the Belen Market is not for the faint of heart or inexperienced traveller closed to cultural differences.  I would consider it unsafe to enter this area without a trusted guide, as tourists are a prime target.   We found ourselves happy to finally reach the rivers edge and board our awaiting water taxi for a quiet ride among the watery front lawns of hundreds, if not thousands, of floating houses.   

 

            

 Homes are built on balsa logs that float as the inevitable seasonal rise in the river comes.  Other homes are elevated on stilts just above the normal annual high-water mark.  This short ride also proved to be an eye-opening study in urban resilience and survival amidst poor sanitation and poverty.   By the time our boat ride had concluded we were ready to move on to the Butterfly Farm. 

            Once we were on solid ground again we commandeered two of the motocarros for a 20-minute ride to board yet another boat to the Butterfly Farm.  There are actually 2 butterfly farms in Iquitos.  The Pilpintuwasi Butterfly Farm represents the oldest and is located together with the Amazon Animal Orphanage. This is normally where all the tourist head.  Mariposario Nuevo is the newest Bufferfly Farm, only opened two years ago, and the one we selected.  

           

Mariposario Nuevo turned out to be an educational center that taught us about the rainforest eco-system.  We learned how each butterfly species has one host plant species that it lays eggs on so the larva can hatch right on the food source it needs to sustain life.  We were introduced to a wide variety of species all in various stages of development.  As finality to our tour we stepped into the enclosed atrium and experienced the grace, beauty and rainbow of colors that swirled around us.  It proved to be an enjoyable end to our time in Iquitos.