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Monday, April 8, 2019

FALKLAND ISLANDS (LAS MALVINAS)


Just like the Galapagos Islands, the Falklands have eluded me for years.  That is, until Tuesday 2/26/2019.  A recent 49-night South American Adventure aboard the Royal Princess included a stop at Stanley, the capital of the Falklands located on East Falkland. Although they are listed as a self-governed British overseas territory, tension still exists with Argentina over rightful possession.

The principal islands are located about 750 miles from the northern tip of the Antarctic Peninsula. The archipelago comprises East Falkland, West Falkland and 776 smaller islands.

The climate of the islands is cold and windy. Rainfall is common over half of the year, averaging 24 inches in Stanley, and sporadic light snowfall occurs nearly all year. Historically the temperature stays between 12-70 degrees Fahrenheit with strong westerly winds and cloudy skies very common.  There are shrubs but no indigenous trees and most of the islands are grass covered.
Typical landscape of the Falklands
As Captain Nick Nash slowly maneuvered the 141,000 ton, 1,083-foot-long Royal Princess into the harbor, I felt considerable relief and great fortune that the weather decided to cooperate. Poor weather conditions the days prior to our arrival had forced other ships to bypass this often-evasive little port. 
Captain Nick Nash                Photo: PD
Royal Princess anchored at Stanley, Falklands
Enjoying the 'brisk' air of Stanley, Falklands
Port Stanley requires ship tenders to transfer passengers ashore. From our anchor point battle sites are visible from the 1982 Falkland Liberation War. 
Pulling into the jetty at Stanley





The town of Stanley was a former remote whaling outpost and even today has a meager population under 2,500.  With the arrival of the Royal Princess Stanley's population was going to double in size with the influx of 3,600 passengers plus 1,300 crew members. 




I stepped off the tender at 9:30am and immediately could feel the British influence in this quaint little town. I was eager to explore further but my first order of business would be to purchase a bus ticket to Gypsy Cove to view Magellanic penguin colonies. In addition to the Magellanic penguins, the Falklands are home to over one million penguins including Gentoo, Rockhopper, Macaroni and King penguins.
Gentoo Penguin
Rockhopper Penguin

Macaroni Penguin

King Penguin

The Magellanic penguin is a medium-sized penguin growing to be somewhere between 24-30 inches tall and weighing between 6-14 pounds.  Males are larger than the femals with adults sporting black backs and white abdomens.  There are two black bands between the head and the breast, with the lower band shaped in an inverted horseshoe.  The head is black with a broad white border that runs from behind the eye, around the black ear-coverts and chin and joins at the throat.  The Magellanic penguin can live up to 25 years in the wild. 
Magellanic Penguin

For you bird enthusiasts, the Falklands offer Dark-faced Ground Tyrants, Upland Geese, Long-tailed Meadowlarks, Black-crowned Night Herons, Rock Cormorants, Falklands Thrush, Flightless Steamer Ducks and many other species.
Dark-faced Ground Tyrants

Upland Goose
Long-tailed meadowlark
Black-crowned night Heron
Rock Cormorants
Falkland Thrush
Flightless Steamer Ducks
Penguin Travel operates shuttle bus service between the Jetty Visitors Center and Gypsy Cove.
Jetty Visitor Center and staff selling tickets


Finding where to purchase shuttle bus tickets was pretty simple.  The jetty is very small and I found the people of Stanley to be extremely friendly, helpful and genuinely glad that we had arrived. 

You can not reserve a ticket for the shuttle ahead of time.  Tickets are first come, first served.  Simply get in line, pay your $20, receive your ticket and board the next available shuttle bus. They operate continuously while the ship is in town and depart when the bus is full. They also have a classic Double Decker London Bus.  The ride out to Gypsy Cove took under 30 minutes and provides some nice views of Stanley and the surrounding area. 
Penguin Travel classic double decker London bus
With the Falklands being home to five different Penguin species, almost half a million Penguin breeding pairs are thought to live on the islands and over 80% of the entire world’s population of black-browed albatross nest on the islands.
Black-browed albatross

Feel free to spend as much time as you like at Gypsy Cove. Simply board the first available shuttle back to the jetty.  You will find them to be numerous, run continuously, departing when full.  You will find both groomed and dirt paths and I found an hour here was quite adequate. A nice addition is the restroom trailer located at the shuttle pickup area.  Don’t forget to take along your binoculars.

 
Bathroom trailer at drop-off and pick-up point at Gypsy Cove


Groomed walkways down toward the penguin colonies

Magellanic penguin colony at Gypsy Cove




Once back at Gypsy Cove you will be dropped at the jetty next to the tender location.  From here I headed down main street with my sights set on a visit to the Dockyard Museum. Admission is FREE simply by presenting your cruise card. 
 You can certainly feel the British influence as you make your way to the Dockyard Museum, passing Globe Tavern, Christ Church Cathedral, Whalebone Arch, Stanley Police Station and the Post Office.  I especially liked the look and feel of the Post Office.  Painted a sterile cream-color, sporting white trim, blue roof and black wrought iron accents.  In front proudly stands two iconic red telephone boxes and a red mail drop, both synonymous with Britain.
Globe Tavern

Local police

Stanley Police Department


Penguin News Building

SS Great Britain Mizzan Mast



Whalebone Arch and Christ Church Cathedral


Stanley Post Office
The walk to Dockyard Museum took under 10 minutes. The first floor featured exhibits on the islands history while the upstairs portion was full of taxidermied animals and remnants of ancient ships from some of the first explorers.  One of my favorite displays was the Reclus Hut in the Antarctic Gallery.  The hut and nearly all of it's contents are original.  It was prefabricated in Stanley in 1956, then erected at Cape Reclus on the Antarctic Peninsula and used by the Falkland Islands Dependencies Survey.  It was subsequently offered to the Falkland Museum, dismantled, transported and reassembled in Stanley.  The museum also offers a short 10-minute video about the Falkland Liberation War.
Museum grounds


Museum grounds

Museum grounds

Inside Museum
Inside Museum

Inside Museum

Inside Museum
Inside Museum
Reclus Hut at Cape Reclus Antartic Peninsula.        Photo:  PD

Artist rendition of inside the Reclus Hut           Photo: PD
From the Dockyard Museum I made my way back to the jetty, turned right and walked up the hill a couple of short blocks until I came to the famous Victory Bar.  This is a very small and quaint British-style pub.  The name celebrates the re-taking of the island group from Argentina in the war of 1982.  This was a fantastic little bar with tons of history and atmosphere.  We met up with friends to enjoy some local fish and chips accompanied by local ale.  It was a great end to a fantastic day of discovery on the Falklands. 
Entrance sign to Victory Bar


Inside Victory Bar

Inside Victory Bar



Tuesday, April 2, 2019

RIO DE JANEIRO - FACT AND FICTION


The sixth most populous city in the Americas with close to 7 million, Rio de Janeiro “Rio” is most notably known as the home to Carnival, Christ the Redeemer and Sugar Loaf Mountain.  It is also a city with some popular myths. 
Photo:  Public Domain
Photo:   Public Domain

Photo:   Public Domain
Myth #1: Rio is NOT the capital of Brazil.  That honor is held by Brasilia.  Rio held the title for centuries but that distinction was transferred to Brasilia on April 21, 1960.  Brasilia was a planned community built in 41 months and houses all three branches of government along with 120 foreign embassies.
Photo:  Public Domain

Myth #2:  The national language of Brazil is NOT Spanish.  Only a tiny percentage of the locals speak Spanish.  The official language is Portuguese.

Facts:  The Royal Princess docked in Rio at 9am on Sunday, February 17, 2019.  I had pre-arranged a shore excursion for our group through City Rio.  Our day in Rio was to include Christ The Redeemer Statue,  Sugar Loaf Mountain, Escadaria Stairs aka “Selaron Stairs”,  San Sebastian Cathedral, and Maracana Stadium,  as well as lunch at an iconic restaurant on Copacabana Beach.

Our small group disembarked the Royal Princess at 9am and made our way through the cruise terminal and onto the main street.  Here we were met by colorful murals and numerous merchants all contending for our business. 
Wall murals outside cruise port
Wall murals outside cruise port
Wall mural outside the cruise terminal

Street vendors outside cruise terminal
Royal Princess docked in Rio
After a short 10-15 minute wait we connected with Casio, our tour guide for the day.  
Casio, our tour guide
We followed Casio to our awaiting van, boarded and were off to explore all that Rio had to offer. 
Group boarding our van

Our first stop would be the Escadaria Stairs aka “Selaron Stairs”. The stairs are the work of Chilean-born artist Jorge Selarón who claimed them as "my tribute to the Brazilian people".
Selaron Stairs                 Photo: Public Domain

Consisting of 215 colorful steps measuring 410 feet long, the steps are covered in over 2,000 tiles collected from over 60 countries around the world.  More than 300 of the tiles are hand painted.  
Standing at the base of the steps
At the top looking down the steps
Example of the tile work
Before you leave the steps you will want to grab a Caipirinha, the national cocktail of Brazil.  Our price was $5 BRL or the equivalent of $1.34 USD.  
Caipirinha Cocktail               Photo: Public Domain
The drink is made with sugar, lime and cachaça, a sugarcane hard liquor.  Cachaca is Brazil's most common distilled alcoholic beverage. The drink is prepared by mixing the lime and sugar together, then adding ice, finally filling to the brim with the liquor.


 
Mike enjoying a refreshing Caipirinha at the Selaron Steps
After downing our refreshing Caipirinha, we boarded our van and headed to the San Sebastian Cathedral.  Designed after the Mayan Pyramids, the Cathedral was built between 1974 and 1979.  With an overall height of 246 feet, the cathedral has a seating capacity for 5,000 and standing-room for 20,000.  
Entrance to the Cathedral
As you enter the cathedral your eyes are immediately drawn to the four stained glass windows which rise 210 feet from floor to ceiling.   
Stained Glass Windows inside the Cathedral         Photo: Public Domain
Group photo for a friend Anne Kirkby
On display inside the Cathedral
Mother Theresa statue outside the Cathedral
I would suggest a 20 minute stop at the Cathedral.



Next we would head to the Sambadrome, a purpose built parade area.  Built in 1984 for Rio Carnival, this is the place where samba schools parade competitively each year during Carnival.  
Entrance to Sambadrome
The Sambadrome is a 2,300 feet stretch of Marques de Sapucai Street and is a permanent parade ground complete with bleachers and grandstands rising on both sides to accommodate its capacity audience of 90,000.  
Aerial of Sabadome               Photo: Public Domain
Crowds in Sambadome                          Photo: Public Domain
Parade inside Sambadome                       Photo: Public Domain
When not in use for Carnival artists perform in Apotheosis Square of the Sambadrome.  Notables have included Eric Clapton,  Black Eyed Peas, Pearl Jam, Elton John, Coldplay, Whitney Houston, Britney Spears, Justin Bieber, Iron Maiden,  Jonas Brothers, Nirvana, Janet Jackson, Bon Jovi, David Bowie and the Rolling Stones.

Leading up to Carnival the samba schools begin holding technical rehearsals at the Sambadrome each December.

Rio Carnival holds the distinction of being the largest carnival in the world according to Guinness World Records, recorded in 2004 by hosting over 400,000.

Next we were off to Maracana Stadium. The stadium was opened in 1950 to host the FIFA World Cup which was played July 16, 1950 in front of 199,854 spectators.

On 284 different occasions the Maracana Stadium has hosted crowds of more than 100,000. After the renovation for the 2014 FIFA World Cup, its original capacity was reduced to the current 78,838, allowing it to still remain as the largest stadium in Brazil. 
Aerial view of Maracana Stadium                Photo: Public Domain
It has also served as the venue for the opening and closing ceremonies of the 2016 Summer Olympics and Paralympics. 

Sugar Loaf Mountain was next on our radar.  Located at the mouth of Guanabara Bay on a peninsula that juts into the Atlantic Ocean, Sugar Loaf rises 1,299 feet above the harbor. 
Aerial of Sugar Loaf Mountain                     Photo: Public Domain
Ascent to Sugar Loaf Mountain is accomplished in two stages. 

The first stage is to the top of Urca Hill, the shorter hill right before Sugar Loaf Mountain.  Urca Hill is 726 feet above sea level while Sugar Loaf is 1,306 feet high. The one kilometer ride gives you the first aerial view of Copacabana Beach, Christ the Redeemer statute, Niteroi Bridge and Guanabara Bay.  Here you will be able to find some gift shops, restaurants and a small theater with informational videos.
Walking up to the first cable car entrance
Exit from the cable car at level 1

Walking over to take level 2 cable car
Ready to board second cable car
The second cable car takes you from Urca to the top of Sugar Loaf with an amazing 360-degree view of the region. You will want to sit down and enjoy the view from one of the fast-food shops.  The overlooks will provide you some jaw-dropping views of the ocean and the city.  I am quite sensitive to heights and had to be coaxed a bit but it was so worth the visit. Tickets are sold at the station located at Praia Vermelha and the cable car service runs between 8:00am and 9:00pm.  


Can't believe I am up this high

View from the top

Can't believe I actually walked on that

The group
After returning to sea level we headed toward Christ the Redeemer statue. Constructed between 1922 and 1931, the statue is 98 feet high excluding the 26 foot pedestal, with arms extending 92 feet wide.  It is located at the peak of the 2,300 foot Corcovado Mountain in the Tijuca Forest National Park and overlooks the city of Rio de Janeiro. 
Photo:   Public Doma
A symbol of Christianity across the world, the statue has also become a cultural icon of both Rio and Brazil and is listed as one of the New 7 Wonders of the World.  Made of reinforced concrete and soapstone, construction took nine years, from 1922 to 1931, opening on October 12, 1931.  Construction cost was $250,000 USD – the equivalent to $3,500,000 in 2018.  Allow yourself 40 minutes here. 
Shops and restaurant area before heading up to the statue

Ready to take the escalator up
Here we are
Looking down from the base of the statue
Vans dropping off passengers at the ticket area
Our final stop for the day was Appettito Pizza and Grill 
located on Copacabana Beach.  
Ready to eat
After a very, very late lunch we began making our way back to the cruise port.  As we drove slowly down Copacabana Beach our driver pulled over to allow us time to experience the sights and sounds of Carnival practice on the beach.  It was thrilling and I would have loved to join the fun. 

It was simply a perfect way to end the day.  Rio has so much to offer. I can’t wait to return.