On May 19, 2025, the M/V River Harmony docked in Würzburg, Germany, setting the stage for a delightful day trip to one of Bavaria’s most beloved towns—Rothenburg ob der Tauber. Known for its impeccably preserved medieval architecture and fairytale ambiance, Rothenburg easily earns its place as a highlight on any Romantic Road itinerary.
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| M/V River Harmony |
I departed the ship promptly at 8:30 AM, boarded the complimentary bus provided by Grand Circle, and enjoyed a scenic drive through the Franconian countryside. By 9:30 AM, my group was dropped off near the Jewish Cemetery parking lot, just outside the old city walls.
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| Old city wall of Rothenburg |
From there, we walked through the arched stone gate and into what felt like a living museum. Our time with our Grand Circle guide lasted about 45 minutes, leading us through narrow cobbled streets, half-timbered houses, and quaint shopfronts until we arrived at the city center, where the clock tower dominates the skyline.
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| Entering through city walls to Rothenburg |
Standing tall over the Marktplatz, Rothenburg’s
clock tower (Rathaus-Glockenspiel) isn’t just a timepiece—it’s a
storyteller. At the stroke of noon,
a crowd gathers with anticipation, eyes lifted to the charming façade.
When the clock chimed, two tiny doors creaked open, and out come mechanical figures acting out the famous “Meistertrunk” legend. You can watch here.
The story dates back to 1631 during the Thirty Years' War. General Tilly of the Catholic League threatened to destroy the Protestant town unless someone could drink over three liters of wine in one go. According to legend, Mayor Georg Nusch took up the challenge—and succeeded—saving Rothenburg from certain destruction. Today, that heroic gulp is commemorated daily as the mayor raises his stein and the general looks on, a moment frozen in automaton time.
The tower itself, part of the Rathaus (Town Hall) complex, is a stunning blend of Gothic and Renaissance architecture. Its base dates to the 13th century, while the upper floors were added later. Visitors can actually climb to the top of the tower (not for me however), and on a clear day, enjoy a 360-degree panorama over Rothenburg’s red-tiled roofs and surrounding countryside.
Watching the animated show with beer in hand and the sun warming the square, it felt like time slowed down—not for the clock, but for me.
City Hall Building
Then came the next treat, our guide Karel had us follow him to Käthe Wohlfahrt’s Christmas Museum, an enchanting place where twinkling lights, vintage ornaments, and historic nutcrackers make it feel like Christmas 365 days a year.
Tucked inside a fairy-tale storefront just off the Marktplatz, this museum and adjacent shop are the stuff of childhood dreams and collector fantasies.
As I stepped inside, I was immediately immersed in a world of warm twinkling lights, evergreen garlands, and nostalgic German holiday traditions. The museum itself, known as the “Deutsches Weihnachtsmuseum”, takes visitors on a journey through the evolution of Christmas celebrations in Germany and beyond.
Displays include antique ornaments, handcrafted nutcrackers, glass-blown baubles from Lauscha, and even early Advent calendars from the 19th century. The collection reflects how German customs—like the Christmas tree—helped shape the way much of the world celebrates the holiday today. One particularly memorable exhibit showcased hand-carved nativity scenes from various regions of Europe, each with its own artistic flair.
Photo: Public Domain
Of course, after the museum came the gift shops—a sprawling winter wonderland that winds through room after room of dazzling displays. Everywhere you turned, shelves overflowed with traditional wooden pyramids, incense smokers, candle arches, and ornaments ranging from whimsical to regal. It’s not just a store—it’s an experience.
Even if you’re not in the market for Christmas decorations, it’s hard not to be swept up in the joyful ambiance. Käthe Wohlfahrt captures not just the trimmings of Christmas, but the feeling of it—the nostalgia, the coziness, and the wonder.
Grand Circle pre-arranged a traditional Bavarian lunch for the group at Ratsstube. Marci and I enjoyed a local brew as we waited to be seated inside.
We were seated in the atmospheric cellar, where stone walls and wooden beams set the tone for our Bavarian meal. The first course included fresh salad, warm bread, and a cold beer, followed by a main dish that resembled beef stroganoff served over thick egg noodles—rich, savory, and deeply satisfying. Dessert rounded out the meal perfectly.
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| Upstairs seating area |
After lunch the group was given free more time from about 1:00 PM until 2:45 PM, so I made the most of it. First, I wandered to The Burgaarden (Castle Gardens) and scenic overlook, where views of the Tauber Valley below painted a postcard-worthy scene.
Street view as I headed to the gardens
On the way back, I paused at a Jewish memorial, a somber and moving tribute listing the names of those lost during the Holocaust. It offered a quiet moment of reflection amid the day’s lighter experiences.
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| Jewish Memorial building |
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| Statue of Saint James in front of the church |
Note: There is a 2-euro entry fee to St Jacob’s Church
Next, I made my way to Anneliese Friese, a traditional German craft shop recommended by RickSteves
Time slips away as you wander through the charming shops, and before I knew it, it was time to return to the city center to rejoin my group. At 3:00 PM, our guide led us back through the old city gate, and we boarded the bus for a peaceful ride through the Franconian countryside. We arrived back at the ship around 4:05 PM. While some fellow travelers joined our Program Director Karel for a walking tour of Würzburg at 4:20 PM, I chose to rest and recharge—a quiet break, well earned and thoroughly enjoyed.
From festive folklore and hearty food to historic memorials and medieval beauty, Rothenburg was a day filled with wonder, warmth, and just the right amount of wander.
#River Cruise 2025#Germany#Wurzburg#Rottenburg
5/19/2025 – WURZBURG/ROTTENBERG Germany
Up 6:30am. Departed at 8:30am (GREEN BUS) and arrive at 9:30am. Walked into old town through gate entrance near Jewish Cemetery parking lot. Did walking tour of about 45 minutes and ended at city center (clock tower). Then took us to Christmas Museum and we were on our own until lunch at 12:05p. Watched clock tower go off at noon and then to restaurant (across from City Hall) at 12:05p for lunch. Went down to the cellar. Had beer, salad, bread, main dish was like a stroganoff. Thicker noodles with beef sauce. Was excellent. Desert also served.
Then on our own from around 1 until meeting for walk back to the bus at 2:45pm. Went to the gardens and the overlook. On walk back went to Jewish memorial with all the names. Then back through city center and left Christy at the City Hall steps awaiting Peter. We then walked to St Jacob’s Church. 2 euros entry fee so just took picture and then left. Then went to the traditional German store where Rick Steve’s recommended and Marci bought a gift. Then back to city center, met up with peter and had a beer. Then everyone walked back to the buses. We left at 3pm and arrived back at the boat at 4:05pm. Didn’t go for walking tour at 4:20pm with Karel into the local town – layed down instead.
#River Cruise 2025#Wurzburg#Rothenburg#Germany
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