Sharon Sparlin: MISSISSIPPI RIVER CRUISE ON THE AMERICAN DUCHESS

This past September found me aboard the American Duchess riverboat for a relaxing eight day Mississippi River cruise between Memphis and New Orleans.

American Queen Voyages, formally known as American Queen Steamboat Company, provided a complimentary pre-cruise night at the historic Peabody Hotel in downtown Memphis.

I ended up spending four nights in Memphis. My first three nights were at the Hotel Indigo Downtown Memphis before moving over to The Peabody for my final night.

I have already published articles pertaining to the “Memphis Rock and Soul Museum”, “My Day at Graceland”, “Stax Museum of Rock and Soul” and “Sun Studio”, therefore, this article will focus on the Peabody Duck Parade, my day-by-day itinerary aboard the American Duchess and my final night in New Orleans.

PEABODY DUCK PARADE

For 80 years, at exactly 11:00am and 5:00pm daily, the red carpet is rolled out, the elevator doors open and the Peabody Ducks march themselves down the carpet and launch themselves into the lobby’s marble fountain. They then spend several hours swimming and splashing in the fountain before being marched back upstairs.

But how did ducks hanging out in a lobby fountain actually begin? It was in the 1930’s when Frank Schutt, then General Manager of the Peabody returned from a weekend hunting trip to Arkansas. After becoming quite friendly with a bottle of Jack Daniels whiskey, Frank thought it would be a good idea to put his three ‘live’ duck decoys in the hotel’s travertine marble fountain. Not only did the ducks enjoy the experience, the hotel guests did also and thus, the Duck Parade was hatched.

These prized fowl celebrities are currently under the tutelage of Anthony Petrina, the Peabody’s official duck master. Anthony is only the fifth to hold this title since it originated in 1940. The first, Edward Pembroke, held the post for 50 years!

Anthony Petrina, Duck Master

Petrina cares for his five ‘celebrity’ mallards, as well as five more ducks in training. All of them reside in the Royal Duck Palace located on the Peabody roof. Made of marble and glass, the $200,000 replica of the hotel includes its very own fountain with a bronze duck spitting water and a soft, grassy front yard.


Photo: Public Domain

Photo: Public Domain

Every three months the ducks are rotated and the current 'celebrity' group is released to live on a nearby farm.

The 'celebrity' mallards have appeared on The Tonight Show with Johnny Carson, on Sesame Street when Bert and Ernie celebrating Rubber Ducky Day, on The Oprah Winfrey Show, and even in People magazine.

THE AMERICAN DUCHESS

On embarkation day the American Queen Voyages provides complimentary shuttle transfers to the docked American Duchess, ensuring all passengers are aboard by 4:30pm as our departure to Helena was set for 5:00pm.

Photo: Public Domain

Another nice feature of this river cruise was the complimentary hop-on hop-off shore excursions offered at each port.

HOHO Sandwich Board

The American Duchess was built in 2017 as a 'boutique-style' riverboat consisting of four decks with maximum capacity of 166 passengers.

Stepping aboard the American Duchess on embarkation day I entered via the grand lobby and was greeted by cheerful crew members offering complimentary sparkling champagne, mimosas and water while the Show Band played softly in the background.

Grand Lobby

First order of business was to locate cabin 316 and settle in. The cabin was configured as a 'double' and included a flat-screen TV, mini-refrigerator, Keurig coffee maker, a safe and an ironing board and iron.

Double Inside Stateroom (not cabin 316) Photo: American Queen

Inside cabin

Bathroom sink/storage area (not much)

Once settled into the room, I made a quick tour of the boat to familiarize myself with the various public rooms and amenities that would be available over the next week.

River Club and Terrace

River Club outside seating areaz

Library and Game Room


Dining Room

Fitness Center

Monet Art Walk

Perks Coffee, Snack and Ice Cream Shop

Following an open-seating dinner that started at 5:15pm Cruise Director Jeff Hutson welcomed everyone on board. This was followed by an overview of the shore excursion program presented by Wendy Strickler, Shore Excursion Manager. Captain Burt Suarez took the helm of the American Duchess and was responsible for maneuvering us down the Mighty Mississippi.

Captain Burt Suarez Photo: River Times

Cruise Director Jeff Hutson Photo: River Times

The evening entertainment started at 6:00pm in the Show Lounge with “All Hands on Deck” featuring music by the American Duchess Entertainment Team.

Photo: American Queen Voyages

Tuesday September 7, 2021

Helena, Arkansas

Temperature: 90 degrees

The complimentary hop-on hop-off bus operated from 8:30am-12:30pm and departed ever 20 minutes. If you opted to stay aboard the Duchess, the morning movie “Rebuilding Helena” was repeated every 20 minutes from 8:30am-11:30am.

All aboard was 12:30pm for a 1:00pm sailing to Vicksburg. Dinner seating started at 5:15pm and the evening show was titled “River Songs”.

A nightly port review of Vicksburg was presented by Wendy in the Show Lounge at 7:45pm, followed by late night entertainment in the Grand Lobby Bar with the American Duchess Show Band.

The cocktail of the Day

Disaronno Sour: Amaretto Disaronno, Sour, Sprite

Wednesday September 8, 2021

Vicksburg, Mississippi

Temperature: 93 degrees

The complimentary hop-on hop-off bus operated from 8:30am-4:30pm and left from the dock ever 20 minutes from 8:30am-12:30pm and every 30 minutes from 12:30pm-4:30pm. If you opted to stay aboard the Duchess, a morning movie “Julie and Julia” was shown at 9:00am.

All aboard was 4:30pm for a 5:00pm sailing. Dinner seating started at 5:15pm and the evening show was titled “Rag, Jazz and Razzamatazz”.

A nightly port review of Natchez was presented at 7:30pm in the Show Lounge by Wendy, followed by late night entertainment in the Grand Lobby Bar with the American Duchess Show Band featuring piano man Steve Spracklen and his high energy show.

The cocktail of the Day:

Old Fashioned: Bourbon, Simple Syrup, Angostura Bitters, Orange & Cherry

Thursday September 9, 2021

Natchez, Mississippi

Temperature: 97 degrees

The morning began with an 8:30am river chat in the Show Lounge with Riverlorian Steve Spracklen.

The complimentary hop-on hop-off bus operated from 8:30am-4:30pm and operated ever 20 minutes from 8:30am-12:30pm and every hour from 12:30pm-4:30pm. If you opted to stay aboard the Duchess, the 9am morning movie matinee was “Steal Magnolias”.

Friend Rob Loft in the Fat Mamas Bathtub Photo: Janice Loft

The Hallmark filming crew took over the American Duchess in the afternoon. It was fun sitting on the sidelines watching the process of filming a winter movie when the outside temperature was 97 degrees. The title of the movie is "Every Time a Bell Rings" and stars Erin Cahill, Brittany Ishibashi, Ali Leibert and Wes Brown. The world premier of the movie is scheduled to be shown in Natchez at the Natchez Bluff on November 14, 2021.

All aboard was 4:30pm for a 5:00pm sailing. Dinner seating started at 5:15pm.

A nightly port review of St. Francisville was presented by Wendy in the Show Lounge at 5:45pm, followed by late night entertainment in the Grand Lobby Bar with the American Duchess Ensemble and Show Band performing “Just Go To The Movies”.

The cocktail of the Day:

Dark & Stormy: Goslings Black Seal Rum, Angostura Bitters & Ginger Beer

Friday September 10, 2021

St. Francisville, Louisiana

Temperature: 87 degrees

The morning began with an 8:30am river chat in the Show Lounge with Riverlorian SteveSpracklen.

The complimentary hop-on hop-off bus operated from 8:30am-4:30pm and operated ever 30 minutes from 8:30am-12:30pm and every 45 minutes from 12:30pm-4:30pm. If you opted to stay aboard the Duchess, the 9:30am morning movie was “The Address”.

All aboard was 4:30pm for a 5:00pm sailing. Dinner seating started at 5:15pm.

A nightly port review of Baton Rouge was presented by Wendy in the Show Lounge at 5:45pm, followed by late night entertainment in the Grand Lobby Bar with the American Duchess Ensemble and Show Band performing “Sock Hop”.

The cocktail of the Day:

Kentucky Sunrise: Bourbon, Orange Juice and Grenadine

Saturday September 11, 2021

Baton Rouge, Louisiana

Temperature: 88 degrees

The morning began with an 8:30am river chat in the Show Lounge with Riverlorian SteveSpracklen.

The complimentary hop-on hop-off bus operated from 9:00am-4:30pm and operated ever 20 minutes from 9:00am-12:30pm and every 30 minutes from 12:30pm-4:30pm. If you opted to stay aboard the Duchess, the 1:00pm movie matinee was “Mamma Mia! Here We Go Again”.

All aboard was 4:30pm for a 5:00pm sailing. Dinner seating started at 5:15pm.

A nightly port review of Nottoway was presented by Wendy in the Show Lounge at 5:45pm, followed by late night entertainment in the Grand Lobby Bar with the American Duchess Ensemble and Show Band performing “Country in Concert”.

The cocktail of the Day:

Mark Twain: Dewar’s Scotch, Sour, Simple Syrup and Bitters

Sunday September 12, 2021

Nottoway, Louisiana

Temperature: 88 degrees

The morning began with an 8:30am river chat in the Show Lounge with Riverlorian SteveSpracklen.

The complimentary hop-on hop-off bus operates every 30 minutes from 8:30am-3:00pm. If you opted to stay aboard the Duchess, the 1:30pm movie matinee was “Ratatouille”.

L-R: Marci Inman, Janice Loft, Sharon Sparlin

All aboard was 5:00pm for a 5:30pm sailing. Dinner seating started at 5:15pm.

A nightly port review of New Orleans was presented by Wendy in the Show Lounge at 5:45pm, followed by late night entertainment in the Grand Lobby Bar with the American Duchess Ensemble and Show Band performing “Anything Goes”.

The cocktail of the Day:

Matador: Tequila, Lime Juice, Simple Syrpus and Pineapple Juice

Monday September 13, 2021

New Orleans, Louisiana

Temperature: 88 degrees

After a lovely breakfast aboard the Duchess, debarkation began. Once off the boat I took an Uber to the Hotel Villa Convento on Ursuline Avenue in the French Quarter. What a fantastic little hotel this turned out to be.

Rumored to be the 'House of the Rising Sun', a location made famouse as a song by The Animals, the Villa Convento is a Creole townhouse built cerca 1833.

The land where the Hotel Villa Convento sits was originally purchased from the Ursulines nuns. The first owner was Jean Baptiste Poeyfarre, who commissioned the construction of the building. Ten years later his widow sold the property and building to Octave Voorheis. Mr. Voorheis lost the property during the depression following the Civil War, approximately 1872. The following twenty-year period saw two different owners and on March 10, 1902, Pasquale Taromina purchased the property, living there until February 1946.

It was during this time frame that it was rumored to be a very popular brothel. New Orleans was a booming port town and one of the largest and richest cites in the United States. The owners felt sure they could profit nicely from all the merchants, sailors, and lonely men.

Throughout the succeeding years there were many owners and it was during these years that it was converted to a rooming house with studio apartments. Jimmy Buffett, probably the most famous tenant, stayed in apartment 305. I wasn't able to get assigned room 305 but did secure 304 for my stay. It was in the early 70’s that the name changed to Hotel Villa Convento but all of the hotel room numbers are the original apartment numbers to this day.

Located in the Lower Quarter, this quarter is where the locals live and play. The Upper Quarter is more touristy and commercial, but still only a 5 minute walk. They are also next to the Ursulines Convent, which is one of the oldest buildings in the Mississippi River valley. This hotel is also conveniently located just a block from the outdoor French Market, bustling with trinkets, souvenirs, and crafts. Café Du Monde, the world famous beignet and chicory coffee outlet, is just a short 5 minute walk. Bourbon Street is a block and a half away and the live music scene of Frenchman Street in the Marigny is four blocks.

All the rooms in Hotel Villa Convento have air conditioning, heat, full bath, windows, cable TV, iron and ironing board, hairdryers, alarm clocks, and complimentary WIFI. Complimentary local coffees and teas are served throughout the day in the lobby. Though the building was built in 1830 it does have an elevator, albeit slow and noisy.

If you need a microwave or refrigerator, these are located in the lobby for guest usage as needed. Also in the lobby is an ATM. They also offer ice and vending machines. A few of the rooms have a mini fridge.

I discovered after my first night that the hotel is said to be haunted by the ghost of one its former madams. Guests staying at the hotel have reported hearing knocking on the doors emulating the madam knocking on a door to alert the couple inside that their “time was up”.

Ghost CityTours provides a more in depth article on the mysteries and hauntings at the hotel.

For further information:

PEABODY DUCK PARADE / THE PEABODY HOTEL

149 Union Avenue

Memphis, TN 38103

Phone: 901-529-4000

AMERICAN QUEEN VOYAGES

Phone: 888-749-5280

HOTEL VILLA CONVENTO

616 Ursuline Avenue
New Orleans, LA 70116