KENAI FJORDS IN SEWARD

The final destination on my recent 7-night Alaska cruise was Seward, Alaska.  Named after former Secretary of State William Henry Seward, the population struggles to hit 3,000. 

Seward is the southern terminus of the Alaska Railroad 

and the historic starting point of the original Iditarod Trail 

to the Alaska interior, with mile 0 of the trail marked on the shoreline at the southern end of Seward.

Iditarod Trail Seward to Nome

The Norwegian Jewel docked in Seward at 5am on Monday, September 2, 2019.  The Seward Cruise Port is the start or the end for more than a half of all cruise passengers in Alaska.

The Norwegian Jewel docked in Seward - photo taken from Harbot 360 Hotel

The nearest airport to Seward is the Ted Stevens Anchorage International Airport.  Allocate 3 hours to reach it by motorcoach and up to 5 hours by train. The train departs from Seward at 6:00PM and arrives at 11:05PM in Anchorage.  The adult fare will run $99 in Value Season and $113 in Peak Season.

Train from Seward to Anchorage

Train Anchorage to Seward

If you prefer to rent a car, you can rent from Hertz, located at the end of the docks, and drive 127 miles along the Seward Highway.     

My confirmation email from Major Marine Tours instructed me to arrive at the check-in point for the Kenai Fjord Boat trip by 10:30am.  My departure from Seward was set for 11:30am. 

The cruise terminal is located about a half mile from the the Harbor 360 Hotel. As you disembark the ship and head to the terminal exit you will see a Hertz counter on your right hand side.  This same counter is also where you can check-in or get information about Major Marine Tours, the tour operators for the Kenai Fjords shore excursion. 

Seward Cruise Port Terminal

Staff is very helpful and friendly and I was pleased to discover that my name was on the list.  You are escorted out of the terminal to the waiting van for the short drive over to Hotel 360.  The vans are white and have “Major Marine Tours”, “Harbor Hotel 360” and "Hertz” printed on the side.

Shuttle bus from cruise terminal to the Harbor 360 Hotel for check-in

The van will make 1 stop at the Hertz rental car location and still be at Harbor Hotel 360 within 5 minutes.   As you walk into the hotel you will see the Major Marine Tours check-in desk located just to your right.  This was the check-in point for my Kenai Fjords shore excursion. 

Major Marine Tours check-in desk inside the Harbor 360 Hotel

Check-in here was also quick and efficient, taking just a couple of minutes.  There is a small shopping area inside the hotel along with a waiting area providing free breakfast and coffee.

Shopping area inside Harbor 360 Hotel

Handicap waiting area for boarding boats

I checked on hotel rates while waiting to board.  The rates run $349/nt for high season.  On 9/1/2019 the rate will drop to $209/nt and then on 10/1/2019 it will drop to $99/nt.   

Harbor 360 Hotel Registration Desk

Harbor 360 Hotel waiting area

Harbor 360 Hotel breakfast area

Harbor 360 Hotel breakfast area

Harbor 360 Hotel breakfast area

It was finally time for boarding.  The boat holds a maximum of 180 but on the day of my tour we were only 130 strong.

Heading to boarding area

I am often leary of using the bathroom on a small boat and was pleasantly surprised at both the size and cleanliness of the one on the Spirit of Adventure.  I was also impressed that it contained a changing table.

Seating inside top deck of the Spirit of Adventure

The trip was listed as a “6-hour Kenai Fjords National Park Cruise”. The boat itself was the Spirit of Adventure and is one of their fastest catamarans.  A uniformed National Park Ranger boards the boat and provides a full narration of the journey, pointing out sights and providing information on the areas ecology history and geology.

Spirit of Adventure boarding area

Spirit of Adventure

Spirit of Adventure

If you are arriving into Anchorage and cruising southbound out of Seward, you can train to Seward and arrive at 11:05am.  This will give you ample time to make the 11:30am departure.  You will simply walk from the train over to the check-in counter at Harbor 360 Hotel, about a 4 minute walk from the Alaska Railroad Depot. 

Seward Train Depot

If you are arriving into Seward and planning on training to Anchorage you still have time to take the Kenai Fjords shore excursion.  The boat will arrive back at the dock at 5:30pm, giving you plenty of time to walk the 4 minutes to the depot and board the train before the 6:00pm departure. 

Walking map from Seward Train Depot to Harbor 360 Hotel

During our tour Captain Kaylean steered us next to Three Hole Point for a great view of that area.  

Map showing Seward, Three Hole Point and Ailak Glacier

Passing by Three Point Hole

Lunch consisted of an all-you-can-eat Alaska salmon and prime rib buffet.  The buffet is NOT included in your ticket price and is an additional $24 per adult. The buffet includes Alaska Copper river salmon, prime rib, rice pilaf, green salad, hot sourdough bread and complimentary soft drinks, coffee, tea and water.  Dessert included cheesecake, brownies and fruit salad.  Special dietary restrictions can be accommodated but require advance notification.

Salmon/Prime Rib main buffet sample

Desserts offered onboard

I could certainly feel the chill in the air as I stood on the deck viewing Ailak Glacier.  Captain Kaylean slowly rotated the catamaran 360 degrees for perfect viewing from all vantage points.  After several minutes on the open deck it was time to head down for a hot drink.

Mike and I on the outside deck of Spirit of Adventure at Ailak Glacier

I opted to try the “Hot Otter”.  This drink is a blend of Kahlua, Irish Cream, Peppermint Schnopps, Hot Cocoa and Whipped Cream.  The cost was $8 but was oh so good and so warm going down. 

The boat encountered some severe seas on the day of my tour and climbing up and down the stairs was a bit tricky.  All seats are assigned and after boarding I discovered that my seat was facing to the rear of the boat.  With plenty of spaces available I simply moved to one of the seats facing forward.

I had anticipated seeing more wildlife but by September most of the whales have gone south.  I did view puffins, sea otters, seals, stellar sea lions, harbor seals and bald eagles.  One whale spout was said to have appeared.  I didn't see it and it was never seen again. 

The only glacier we viewed for the day was Aialic Glacier,  a tide water glacier and the largest in Aialik Bay, located in Kenai Fjords National Park. While fairly stable, the glacier calves most actively in May and June. Some calving occurred during our 20 minute stay but photographing it seemed to illude me.

Approaching Ailak Glacier

Ailak Glacier

Ailak Glacier size comparison

I read you might be able to see bears on the beach but none were spotted on the day of my tour. 

The list price for the 6 Hour Kenai Fjords National Park Cruise is $159 per adult and $79.50 per child.  The seasonal operation for 2019 was May 3rd to September 22.  

Unfortunately I would not be willing to take this trip again.  Commanding a hefty price of $159 per person I felt the cost was excessive considering we viewed only one glacier and saw limited wildlife and no whales.  I am fully aware that my trip was at the end of the season and that whales have typically all headed south by the middle of August.  

Perhaps having the buffet lunch included would have made the trip a bit more palatable to me.  A price of $159 represents one of the more expensive shore excursions that I have ever taken.  Add to that another $24 for the buffet lunch and I just don't feel this is a good value for money spent.