SUVA FIJI: A JOURNEY THROUGH CULTURE AND RAIN

My first trip to Fiji was in December 2017. You can read about that adventure, which included a visit to the Orchid Island Cultural Center, fire-walking performances, and a stay on Robinson Crusoe Island, in my earlier blog posts:

·       Orchid Island and Fire Walkers

·       Robinson Crusoe Island Adventure

 

This time, my trip to Suva, the capital of Fiji, was aboard the Grand Princess cruise ship. 

 

Suva is a vibrant port city located on the southeastern coast of the island of Viti Levu. 

 

As of the 2017 census, the city of Suva had a population of 93,970, and Suva's metropolitan area, which includes its independent suburbs, had a population of 185,913.

 

While it doesn’t boast the postcard-perfect beaches often associated with Fiji, Suva’s charm lies in its cultural offerings, bustling markets, and lush surroundings.

 

Arrival in Suva

We arrived on Sunday, November 17, 2024, greeted by Suva’s signature tropical rainforest climate. Torrential rains dominated the morning, but by 10 a.m., the downpour had eased, allowing me to step off the ship and explore. Suva’s weather can be unpredictable year-round, so it’s always wise to pack waterproof gear and embrace the adventure.

 

A complimentary shuttle service operated from the port, offering convenient on-demand stops around the city.  

Inside the complimentary shuttle bus

 

I decided to just stay on the bus and enjoy the city.  The farthest stop was the Fiji Museum and Thurston Gardens. Unfortunately, the museum was closed for the day, but the serene gardens still provided a pleasant spot for a leisurely walk.

Thurston Gardens

 

A Bus Journey to Nasouri

On my way back to the port, I decided to try the local bus system. The shuttle guide enthusiastically assisted me in purchasing a disposable eTransport tap card, suggesting a round-trip to the nearby city of Nasouri.  I remained on the bus as he disappeared into a Vodafone store to make the purchase.  

Disposable eTransport tap card

 

The impromptu adventure would cost just $5 USD per person for the round-trip ticket from Suva to Nasouri.  He purchased one card with a $20 USD credit.  This would pay for myself and my friend Marci, as well as another couple who overheard my conversation and asked to joined us. 

Couple joining us on the bus

Ready to board our bus to Nasouri

 

The hour-long journey was a delightful way to immerse myself in local life, chat with Fijians, and enjoy the scenery of Fiji’s interior.

Pulling into Nasouri Bus Terminal

The four of us ready to head back to Suva

Enjoying time with the locals

 

Suva’s Portside Charm

The walk from the bus station back to the ship was about 15 minutes and takes you right through the Suva Market. 

 

 

Photo: Public Domain

  

 

Before boarding the ship, I discovered one of Suva's rare open bars: The Metropole Bar and Restaurant.  

Metropole Bar and Restaurant

 

 

Perched on the second floor of a building directly across from the Suva Market and the historic 1930 Building, it sits conveniently at the top of the short street leading to the port entrance.  It’s a hidden gem perfect for unwinding after a day of exploration. Sipping a drink here was the ideal way to wrap up my Suva adventure.

Local Fijian Beer

 

A Note About Suva

While Suva lacks the idyllic white sand beaches of other Fijian destinations, it’s rich in culture and character. From the bustling streets to the friendly locals, it offers a glimpse into authentic Fijian life. If you’re planning a visit, embrace Suva for what it is: a port city steeped in history and vibrant with daily life. Don’t miss out on visiting attractions like the Colo-i-Suva Forest Park during the dry season, or simply soaking in the lively atmosphere of this unique city.

 

 

 

#TAHITI 2024 #Grand Princess #Suva #Fiji #Metropol Bar #Nasouri #Robinson Crusoe Island #Orchard Island #Fire Walkers

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A DAY IN APIA, SAMOA

Nestled on the northern coast of Samoa’s Upolu Island, Apia is a vibrant city steeped in history and cultural significance. 

Founded in the 1850s, Apia officially became Samoa’s capital in 1953, serving as a center of governance, commerce, and culture.

 

A Harbor of Heroes and Tragedies

Apia’s harbor holds a dramatic chapter of 19th-century history. On March 15, 1889, it was the site of a naval standoff among Germany, the United States, and Britain. Despite a brewing typhoon, none of the seven ships would vacate the harbor for fear of appearing weak. The storm devastated the fleet, with only the British cruiser Calliope escaping intact. Nearly 200 lives were lost in this tragic clash of pride and nature.

 

An Unforgettable Stop in Apia

On Friday, November 15, 2024, the Grand Princess docked in Apia, Samoa, marking the start of an unforgettable day.

 

My primary goal? Visiting the Robert Louis Stevenson Museum, a must-see for history and literature enthusiasts alike.

 

The port buzzes with transportation options—buses, vans, and taxis—ready to take you wherever you’d like to go. However, a little negotiation can make a big difference! My first taxi driver quoted $50 USD for a one-way ride to the museum for four people, but after some friendly bargaining, I secured a cab for $20 USD.

 

Pro Tip: Always agree on the fare before hopping into a taxi. Drivers are generally friendly and open to negotiation, so don’t hesitate to shop around.

 

A Tribute to Robert Louis Stevenson

Apia is home to the Robert Louis Stevenson Museum, a tribute to the famed Scottish writer known for classics like “Treasure Island”,  “Strange Case of Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde” and “Kidnapped”. 

 

Robert Lewis Stephenson  (1850-1894)

Seeking relief from tuberculosis, Stevenson first visited Samoa in 1889 and returned in 1890 to live permanently in Vailima, just above Apia. 

 

Vailima, Robert Lewis Stephenson home in Apia, Samoa

Stevenson’s mansion, built with imported timber and intricate finishes, is a testament to his love for the island. The museum’s highlights include Stevenson’s study, adorned with wallpaper crafted from traditional Samoan tapa bark cloth. The craftsmanship is extraordinary and reflects the labor-intensive nature of this art.

Tapa room

 

The 30-acre property surrounding the museum is now the Vailima Botanical Garden, showcasing both ornamental and native Samoan plant species. A visit to the museum typically takes about 1.5 hours, but if you’re feeling adventurous, consider hiking to Stevenson’s tomb on Mount Vaea for panoramic views of Apia. 

 

Gravesite on Mount Vaea

 

Practical Information for Visiting the Museum

• Prices: Adults SAT$20; Children under 12 SAT$5; Students SAT$10

       (As of this writing, SAT$20 equals approximately $7.14 USD)

• Hours: Monday to Friday: 9 AM - 4:30 PM; Saturday: 9 AM - Noon; Sunday: Closed.

 

A Tropical Climate and Vibrant Economy

Apia’s tropical rainforest climate brings warm temperatures year-round, averaging 79°F (26°C). Rainfall peaks between December and March, while the driest months are July and August.

 

The city’s economy is a unique blend of local and international influences. Approximately 30% of downtown businesses are owned by a single Chinese family, with Europeans accounting for 10%, and Samoans owning the remaining 60%. This diversity adds to the city’s dynamic character.

 

Note: Always carry your umbrella when visiting Apia. 

L-R:  Rob Loft, Sharon Sparlin, Marci Inman, Janice Loft

  

Navigating Apia

Traveling around Apia is straightforward, thanks to its well-maintained roads. In 2009, Samoa transitioned to driving on the left-hand side, aligning with many other Pacific nations. Whether you’re walking historic streets, visiting cultural landmarks, or enjoying its tropical ambiance, Apia offers an enriching and unforgettable experience.

 

From its storied past to its vibrant present, Apia offers a blend of history, culture, and natural beauty. Whether you’re a history buff, a literary fan, or simply looking to soak in Samoa’s tropical charm, Apia is sure to leave a lasting impression.

 

 

 

#TAHITI 2024 #Grand Princess #Robert Lewis Stephenson #Apia Samoa

EXPLORING PAGO PAGO, AMERICAN SAMOA

Pronounced "Pango Pango",  Pago Pago is the vibrant capital of American Samoa, an island territory rich in history and culture. Known as a hub for the global tuna industry, Pago Pago was once home to the world’s fourth-largest tuna processor and boasts the largest tuna cannery in the world. In 2009, it had the highest annual fish landing value of any U.S. port or territory, amounting to an impressive $200 million.

A Glimpse into History

Pago Pago’s story begins over 4,000 years ago when Polynesian navigators first settled the islands. Today, American Samoa’s population stands at 46,473, with 3,656 residents in Pago Pago itself. Among its visitors was none other than Robert Louis Stevenson, who graced the town with his presence in 1889.

Arrival by Sea

My arrival to Pago Pago aboard the Grand Princess was early on Wednesday, November 13, 2024. 

Grand Princess sailing into Pago Pago Harbor

 

 

As the ship docked at approximately 7 a.m., we were warmly welcomed by a local youth group performing traditional Samoan dances. Their vibrant energy and colorful costumes made for an unforgettable introduction to the island.

 

 

 

 

Pago Pago local youth performance group

 

Disembarking the Grand Princess at 9:45 a.m., my first stop was the Jean P. Haydon Museum, a treasure trove of cultural and historical artifacts. 

Outside of Jean P Haydon Museum

Inside Jean P Haydon Museum (limited seating)

 

Established in 1970, the museum is named after Jean P. Haydon, the wife of Governor John Morse Haydon and former First Lady of American Samoa. Its collection spans over 650 items, including canoes, coconut-shell combs, pigs' tusk armlets, and native medicinal tools. The exhibits also delve into natural history, traditional tattooing, and the art of tapa making. Admission was free, but I paid $5 to access unlimited wi-fi—a worthwhile investment for the day.

Inside the museum

Inside the museum

Inside the museum

Inside the museum

Inside the museum

Inside the museum

Inside the museum

Inside the museum

 

Exploring the Harbor by Bus

After soaking in the museum’s exhibits, I set out to explore Pago Pago Harbor via the island’s main artery, Route #1. Conveniently, the local bus station was located next to the museum.

I hopped on the first available bus, not knowing where it would take me. The fare was just $2 USD, paid directly to the driver. 

Inside the chicken bus

Inside the chicken bus

 

The journey led to A’ua, a picturesque village on the island’s eastern side. 

 

Without disembarking, I stayed aboard and returned to the port area, where I explored the bustling Fagatogo Market. This vibrant market is a great spot to pick up local goods and immerse yourself in the daily rhythm of the community.

 

Next, I boarded the Leone bus, which took me westward to the charming town of Leone, the second-largest city on Tutuila Island’s west coast. The ride lasted about an hour, offering glimpses of the lush landscapes with serene coastal views. 

Marci boarding the Leone bus

 

Once again I remained on the bus and returned to the pier area.  Once back I visited the local post office and browsed a small market. By early afternoon, I found myself back at the Jean P. Haydon Museum to utilize its wi-fi before making my way back to the ship.

Farewell to Pago Pago

Walking back to the port, I boarded the Grand Princess in plenty of time for the all-aboard call at 4:30 p.m. As we sailed away at 5 p.m., I reflected on the day—a perfect blend of cultural discovery, scenic beauty, and authentic island life.

Pago Pago offers a unique glimpse into American Samoa’s rich history and warm hospitality. Whether you’re exploring its museums, markets, or simply riding the local buses, the charm of this Pacific paradise is sure to leave a lasting impression.

 

 

 

#TAHITI 2024 #Grand Princess #Pago Pago #American Samoa