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Friday, July 28, 2023

REYKJAVIK, ICELAND

Reykjavík is the capital and largest city of Iceland. It is located in southwestern Iceland, on the southern shore of Faxafloi bay. Lying at latitude 64°08' North makes it the world's northernmost capital of a sovereign state.  Officially founded in 1786, Reykjavík now has a population of around 140,000 as of 2023 and is among the cleanest, greenest, and safest cities in the world. 

 


 

The Norwegian Star docked in Reykjavik on Friday June 23, 2023 at 6am.  This would be the end of my time aboard the Norwegian Star, having boarded in Southampton, England on Wednesday, May 31, 2023.  In 23 days I made 19 port stops that included 4 countries – England, Scotland, Norway and Iceland.  Including pre-nights in Southampton and post-nights in Reykjavik I was gone a total of 30 days and walked just under 100 miles. 

 

The ship was cleared for debarkation by 7am.  I took advantage of breakfast onboard and disembarked at 8:15am.  I would spend three nights in Reykjavik, flying home on Monday June 26, 2023.

 

First order of business was to find the 101 Guesthouse and drop my luggage.  I boarded a complimentary shuttle from the port to the downtown area and was dropped at the striking landmark of the Harpa Concert Hall and Conference Center.  

 


I called a taxi and it arrived within 5 minutes.  The taxi fare for 2 was 1940ISK or $14.76USD at the time of this writing.  I paid the driver with a credit card. 

 

The 101 Guesthouse occupies 2 floors of a former office building on a very busy corner of downtown Reykjavik.  The 2nd floor is more like a hostel with shared bath and showers and the 4th floor is more of a sleek boutique hotel. 


Front Entrance to 101 Guesthouse

 

The hotel is in a great location just 1 block from the bus station with access to several restaurants and bars within a couple blocks.  The room was not ready when I first arrived but I was able to remain in the public kitchen area with my luggage until 11:30am, when I was handed the keys to room #304.  The room was a double with shared bathrooms and a shower directly across the hall.  If you find yourself on a floor that is mostly RED, it's the 2nd floor hostel area.  If you find yourself on a floor that is mostly BLACK, it's the 4th floor hotel area.

 

Kitchen and waiting area

Shared bath and shower

Kitchen area

2nd Floor Hostel hallway

Double room / 2nd floor hostel

Sample hotel room on 4th floor

Sample hotel room on 4th floor

I had tickets for “Fly Over Iceland”, the ultimate flying ride. Ground breaking on the building was April, 2018. Admission cost runs 5,490ISK or $38USD at the time of this writing.

 


I needed to be at the Fly Over Iceland building by 12:45pm.  I walked from my hostel room to the HLEMMER BSI bus station, just 1 block away.  Here I boarded bus #14, getting off at the FISKSLOO stop.  The 1.5 hour ticket was 500ISK or $3.66USD at the time of this writing.  I paid the driver using my credit card.  


Bus #14 route
 
 
Bus Stop at Fly Over Iceland

I arrived at the Fly Over Iceland attraction at 12:20pm.   The attraction utilizes state-of-the-art technology to give you the feeling of flight. You hang suspended, feet dangling, before a 65.5 feet tall spherical screen.  The film whisks you away on an exhilarating journey across Iceland with special effects, including wind, mist and scents.  Combined with the ride’s motion it creates an unforgettable experience. There is no photography once you start your experience.  


Fly Over Iceland                                  Photo: Public Domain


Each flight departure time consists of 40 passengers.  The total time for the experience is 30 minutes.  Two pre-flight shows are 10 minutes each in length, followed by the actual flight itself which is an exhilarating 9 minutes. 

 

The first pre-flight experience focuses on the history, mythology and nature of the island as seen through the eyes of a troll. 

Known as “The Well of Time”, you journey on an immersive exploration through Iceland’s history.   Through music, video, imagery and sound, nature and the human spirit come to life. 

 

Your guide is Sú Vitra, a character based on a troll legend custom-designed by illustrator Brian Pilkington.  Sú Vitra symbolizes the wisdom and enchantment of Iceland and takes you through three different acts.  


The Well of Time Troll             Photo: Public Domain


First you will feel the power of the land as the strong and often violent forces of nature take shape. Next experience is the arrival of man and the introduction of “Petta Reddast”.  The phrase Petta Reddast is so frequently used in Iceland it has been described as the country’s motto and translated to “it will all work out okay”.  Finally, you will discover how Icelandic people have made a life on the island.  Life continues, no matter what.

 

The second pre-flight experience is called “The Longhouse”.  In this experience you will meet an Icelandic storyteller who will welcome you into his Viking longhouse, complete with a crackling fire.  He tells ancient tales while projection shadow-play brings it all to life.  I found it to be very Disney like.

 

The Longhouse experience                     Photo: Public Domain

 

Filming and photography are not allowed inside the attraction but you can click here to watch a YouTube video which provides an exclusive look at the making of Fly Over Iceland, divided into 4 chapters. 

 

The following day was June 24, 2023 and I booked a Golden Circle & Fontana Wellness  all-day tour through Reykjavik Excursions.  


From the 101 Guesthouse I walked a block to the HLEMMER BSI bus station.  I boarded bus #5 and within 3 minutes had arrived at the BSI bus stop for Reykjavik Excursions.  As bus tickets are only good for a 1.5 hour duration, I needed to buy another ticket for the #5 bus to get myself to the Reyjkavik Excursions location.  You can check this website for bus schedules and routes.   The cost was 500ISK or $3.77USD at the time of this writing.  I paid the driver using a credit card.  

 

After exchanging my voucher for a ticket, I boarded the designated Reykjavik Excursions bus, leaving the terminal at 10am. 


 

After 45 minutes we made our first stop at the FRIDHEIMER tomato farm.  We were given 50 minutes here.  As you enter the main greenhouse you are given a short and informative talk into the processes of greenhouse horticulture.  I found it quite remarkable that it would be possible to grow 26,000 tomato plants in such a cold climate.  This is accomplished by creating a warm Mediterranean condition, albeit a greenhouse, all year round and even through the long dark winters. The Atrium also includes an exhibition about the use of geothermal heating in Icelandic horticulture. You can also sample delicious food and drink such as Tomato Jam, Cucumber Salsa and Tomato Drink. 














Horses at the tomato farm
 

Stop #2 on the tour was GEYSIR CENTER and HOTSPRINGS. I arrived at 11:30am and left at 12:50pm. Geysir is a geothermal area located in southwestern Iceland, about 75 miles from Reykjavik, and is famous for its hot springs and geysers.  There is no admission fee to visit this area. 

 


 


 

Geysir itself is no longer active, but the nearby Strokkur geyser erupts about every 6-10 minutes.  The height of the eruption varies but it usually reaches between 49-65 feet.  The temperature of the water in the geysers can reach up to 212 degrees Fahrenheit.  







I made my way into the restaurant and gift shop area.  A local beer here costs 1100ISD or $8.30USD as of this writing. 
 







Stop #3 was “GULLFOSS”  the Gold Falls.  Gullfoss is a waterfall located in the canyon of thye Hvita river. 

 

 

Path to the falls lookout

 

The Hvítá river flows southward, and about a kilometer above the falls it turns sharply to the west and flows down into a wide curved three-step "staircase" and then abruptly plunges in two stages, 36 feet and 69 feet, into a crevice 105 feet deep. The crevice, 66 feet wide and 1.6 miles in length, extends perpendicular to the flow of the river.

 

Upper Falls

 

Upper Falls and Lower Falls

 

Stop #4 was FONTANA GEOTHERMAL SPA.  Since 1929, locals have been enjoying the healing powers of the natural steam baths by Lake Laugarvatn. Hot, healing steam simmers directly from the ground through grids in the cabin floors of the three traditional steam rooms.

Main Entrance

Restaurant area

Check in area

The temperature of the steam varies depending on the temperature of the hot spring and weather, usually between 104 and 122 degrees Fahrenheit.  Humidity is very high in the steam rooms.  Grids in the floor of the steam rooms allow you to hear and smell the boiling natural hot spring directly underneath, creating a natural and unique experience.


Lauga, Saela, and Viska are connected outdoor mineral baths that vary in depth, size and temperature. The pools and hot tub are perfect for relaxation. 


Marci enjoying the spa






Viska, the hot tub, is built at a slightly higher level, providing a panoramic view of the beautiful surroundings while the healthy water nourishes both body and soul.



Next to the steam room is Ylur, a Finnish-style sauna. The temperature is between 176 and 194 degrees Fahrenheit with a lower humidity than the steam room. You can also enjoy the beautiful lake view through the large window.

 


Fontana allows you to walk into the cool lake from the pier or walk on the warm black sand beach.  A cool dip in between the hot steam rooms and sauna provides a refreshing temperature shift for the healthy of heart. Cold bathing is believed to have beneficial health effects, such as improving blood circulation and speeding up muscle soreness and recovery. It has also been shown to be beneficial for those suffering from arthritis and other joint illnesses.



You can experience geothermal energy first hand by trying the geothermal baked bread!  They make the bread following an old recipe, bury it into the warm ground and bake it for 24 hours.

 

A walk to the geothermal bakery starts every day at 11:45am and 2:30pm from the reception area.  Guests experience the geothermal bakery first hand and watdh the process as a pot of fresh bread is dug up from the hot black sand.  Once back in the reception area you will be offered a tasting of the bread, served hot from the ground with Icelandic butter and thinly sliced smoked salmon.  You won't want to miss this!

 

 


 

There were only 6 of us on the bus that had pre-arranged for a stop at the Fontana Geothermal Spa.  We were dropped off at 1:30pm with instructions that pickup would be at 4:45pm.  

 

Admission to the Spa was included with our Golden Circle tour price but regular admissions run 4990ISK or $37.66 for adults 17-66 and only 2990ISK or $22.57USD for Seniors 67 years of age and older.  


Stop #5 was Thingvellier National Park (Gestastofa) to view the Atlantic tec-plate rift valley. Thingvellir National Park is located in an active volcanic area, about 30 miles east of Reykjavík.  The best-defined feature is a major rift, which has produced dramatic fissures and cliffs demonstrating inter-continental drifting in a spectacular way. The Park is encircled by mountains on three sides, featuring grass-covered lava fields, with Lake Thingvallavatn at its southern end.


 





The open air parliamentary assembly of Iceland, was held in this area annually from around 930 AD to 1798. Over two weeks a year, the assembly set laws and settled disputes.

 


 Arrival back into Reykjavik was at 7pm.  I didn't go back to the Reykjavik Excursions location but instead asked to get off near the 101 Guesthouse to avoid paying another bus fare.  I was dropped at stop #9  and walked 1 block to the hostel. 

 

My third day in Reykjavik was June 25, 2023.  I left the 101 Guesthouse at 9:30am and walked 1 block to HLEMMER BSI bus station.  At 9:42am I boarded bus #18 from HLEMMER to the PERLAN stop.  This day would be spent at Perlan Wonders of Iceland.


Perlan was initially a cluster of hot water tanks, but on June 21, 1999, the building was inaugurated and opened to the public. The building consists of a massive glass dome resting on top of six district heating tanks. Four of them are still in use, one hosts a real Ice Cave, and one has been turned into a Planetarium.

 


 

 

HIGHLIGHTS OF PERLAN

  • Planetarium with a Northern Lights show – Arora, the first 8k film of its kind
  • Ice Cave, 100 meters long. Built from around 400 tons of ice, snow, and ash
  • Interactive Glacier Exhibit
  • Lava show
  • Water Exhibition
  • Latrabjarg Cliff, a ten-meter-high replica of one of Europe‘s biggest seabird cliffs
  • Virtual Fish tank
  • Forces of Nature Exhibit and Iceland´s geological story timeline
  • 360° observation deck
  • Ice Cream Parlour
  • Restaurant and Cafe

 

Admission will run 4990ISK or $35USD as of this writing. 


L-R: Marci Inman, Sharon Sparlin inside ice cave









Latrabjarg Cliff (seabird cliff)

I caught bus #18 from PERLAN back to the HLEMMER BSI bus station.  I walked across the street and stopped at 2Guys. This is a great little bar and restaurant and was a great place for a short break and lunch.  A beer here runs 2900ISK or $10.11USD as of this writing.  

 

It was time to head back to the HLEMMER BSI bus station – this time boarding bus #14 at 1:33pm to the Lava Show, located next to the Fly Over Iceland building.  I arrived at 1:43pm at the FISKISLOO stop.  I had a ticket for the 2pm show.  The show is 1 hour in length.  Admission is 900ISK or $43USD as of this writing.  If you are interested in walking it will take about 35 minutes. 


This attraction is the only live lava show in the world.  It recreates a volcanic erruption by super heating real lava to 2,000 degrees Fahrenheit and then pouring it into a showroom full of people.  The Lava Show is one of the highest rated attractions in Iceland and was certainly a very unique experience.  









I walked back to the bus stop and boarded bus #14 at 3:04pm.  I was back at the HLEMMER BSI bus station at 3:17pm. 


 

Before heading back to the room I walked to the supermarket across the street from the 101 Guesthouse and bought items for dinner along with some snacks for my airline flight the following day as Icelandic Air does not serve complimentary meals on their flights.

 

My flight home was scheduled to depart on June 26, 2023 at 4:50p.  I pre-arranged for a Grayline transfer at 12:30pm from the SNORRABROUT bus stop #9.  This is directly across the street from the 101 Guesthouse. The transfer time took 45 minutes, arriving at the airport at 1:15pm.  

 


During my 3 nights in Reykjavik I walked a total of 19,558 steps or 8 miles.  Here's my breakdown by day:

    6/23/2023     5,302                  2.2 mi

    6/24/2023     6,643                  2.7 mi

    6/25/2023     4,678                  1.9 mi

    6/26/2023     2,935                  1.2 mi