Sharon Sparlin: KING RICHARD I & CHATEAU GAILLARD

The date was September 8, 1157 and a prince was born at the Kings House, Oxford England. This prince left more than just a mark on the world. The details of his life are obscure but you undoubtedly have heard his name, “Richard the Lionheart”.

By the tender age of 16 Richard I, third legitimate son of King Henry II of England, was already commanding his own army and squelching rebellions. Richard was the third of five sons fathered by King Henry II so Richard never believed that he would ascend to the throne.

Richard I was perhaps one of England’s most legendary kings yet spent less than six months of his reign in England after he ascended to the throne on July 6, 1189. At the time of becoming King of England he simultaneously held the title of Duke of Normandy, having inherited Normandy from his father at the same time he was crowned King of England. He is also the only king to have a statue outside the Houses of Parliament in England, even though records indicate that he barely spoke English and during his 10 year reign he was in England no more than six months and was totally absent for the last five years.

Richard began construction on Chateau Gaillard in 1196 and it would become his favorite residence and fortress, situated about 300 feet above the small community of Les Andelys overlooking the Seine River.

Looking down on Chateau Gaillard

Ruins of Chateau Gaillard

Entrance to Upper Court and Dungeon area

The castle proved expensive to build, but the majority of the work was completed in only two years. It was also one of the earliest European castles to use machicolations, a floor opening between the supporting structures of the battlements through which stones or other material, such as boiling water or cooking oil, could be dropped on attackers at the base of the wall.

Unfortunately for Richard he did not get to enjoy the benefits of the castle for long as he died on April 6 1199 from an infected arrow wound to his shoulder. His younger brother John ascended to the throne and took possession of Chateau Gaillard, only to have it overthrown by Philip II of France in 1204.

With Chateau Gaillard in sight, the MS River Venture, our home since our departure from Paris 2 days earlier, gently moved sideways and docked for the day at Les Andelys, arriving at 8:30am. A walking tour of Petit Les Andelys takes less than an hour, after which I suggest you can take the active walk to Chateau Gaillard.

MS River Venture docked at Les Andelys

View of Chateau Gaillard from the deck of the MS River Venture

The ascent is steep and Mike and I ended up stopping twice along the way to catch our breath. There is no entrance fee to the outer ruins and spectacular views but if you plan to view the upper court and dungeon area there is a small fee of about €3 Euros. Check your schedule before planning the trip. The castle is open March 26th to November 1st from 10am-1pm and again from 2pm-6pm. It is closed on Tuesdays.

When you return to the village of Petit Les Andelys be sure and stop at Le Cafe du Petit Andely and request your Richard the Lionheart beer. This is the only place in the world where you can buy it. Two beers ran us €9 Euros.